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CALIFORNIA AND THE 
FAR WEST 



CALIFORNIA AND THE 
FAR WEST 



Suggestions For The 
West Bound Traveler 



BY 
K. E. M. DUMBELL 



NEW YORK 
JAMES POTT & COMPANY 



Copyright, 1914, 
BY JAMES POTT & COMPANY 



OCT 10 1914 


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©CLA379949 

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AUTHOR'S NOTE 

The author begs to acknowledge, with thanks, the 
courtesy of the publishers named below for their 
kindness in granting her permission to use the ex- 
tracts from their publications incorporated in thia 
book. 

The Century Company, 

Messrs. Barse & Hopkins, 

The American Forestry Association, 

The Department of the Interior, United States Gov- 
ernment, 

The Western Guidebook Company, 

Mr. Geo. Perkins Merrill, 

The Chamber of Commerce, Seattle, 
and 

The various railroads. 

The extracts from Mr. John Muir and Mr. J. G. 
Percival are published by permission of, and by spe- 
cial arrangement with, Messrs. Houghton Mifflin 
Company, publishers of their works. 



CONTENTS 

PAGB 

Introduction 11 

Transcontinental Routes 13 

Alaska 19 

Glacier National Park 23 

Blackfeet Glacier 24 

Crater Lake National Park 26 

The Grand Coulee 27 

Vancouver to San Francisco 29 

Mount Rainier National Park .... 30 

How to Climb Mount Rainier .... 33 

Portland 41 

Mount Hood 42 

The Columbia River Trip 43 

Cascades 44 

Astoria 45 

Shasta Springs 46 

Feather River Canon 49 

The Devil's Half Acre 50 

San Francisco . 52 

San Francisco Bay 53 

The Golden Gate Park 55 

Ocean Beach 56 

Panama-Pacific International Exposition . 58 

Mount Tamalpais 59 

Muir Woods 60 

Belvedere 61 

Mount Diablo 62 

Sonoma 63 

Oakland 64 

The University of California 64 

Leland Stanford Junior University . . . 65 

Santa Clara and Mount Hamilton ... 66 

Big Basin 67 

Santa Cruz 68 

7 



8 CONTENTS 

PAOB 

Monterey 68 

The Seventeen-Mile Drive 70 

Four Central Routes 72 

Denver . 73 

Estes Park 74 

Colorado Springs and Pike's Peak ... 75 

Cheyenne Mountain 76 

The High Drive 77 

The Mesa Verde National Park .... 78 

The Garden of the Gods 81 

The Cafion of the Arkansas .... 81 

Salt Lake City 83 

The Yellowstone National Park .... 83 

The Salt Lake Route 91 

Lake Tahoe 95 

The Northern Pacific 97 

Lewis and Clark Cavern 97 

The Bitter Root Valley, Montana ... 98 

Pend d'Oreille 99 

Spokane 100 

The Santa Fe 101 

Wolpi and Oraibi 104 

New Mexico 106 

Albuquerque 107 

Santa Fe 108 

Williams 109 

Hermit Rim Road Ill 

The Union Pacific 112 

Sunset Route 114 

Sacramento 115 

Lodi and the Calaveras Big Trees . . .116 

Murphys 117 

The Grand Cafion of the Colorado . . 120 

The Painted Desert 128 

The Fossil Forest of Arizona 130 

The Natural Bridge, Arizona .... 133 

The Moqui Indian 133 

Navajo Reservation 136 

Zufii 137 

Cochiti Indians 139 

The Pueblos of Acoma and Laguna . 141 

The Apache 143 

The American Sahara 144 



CONTENTS 9 

PAQB 

The Yosemite Valley 147 

Glacier Point 153 

Wawona and the Mariposa Grove .... 154 

The Heteh-Hetchy Valley 155 

Kings River Canon 156 

The Kearsarge Pass 160 

Sequoia National Park 161 

Southern California 163 

Beverley Hills 164 

Santa Monica 164 

San Pedro 164 

Santa Catalina Island 166 

Pasadena 169 

Mount Lowe 169 

Mount Wilson 170 

Ventura 171 

Santa Barbara 171 

San Luis Obispo 172 

Paso Robles Hot Springs 172 

Riverside 174 

The San Joaquin Valley 175 

Missions 176 

San Diego 179 

Coronado Beach 180 

National City 181 

Point Loma 181 

Panama 182 

Hotel List 185 

Book List 197 



I knew it would call, or soon or late, as it calls 

the whirring winga, 
It's the olden lure, it's the golden lure, it's the 

lure of the timeless things," 

R. W. Sebvice. 



INTRODUCTION 

My first visit to the West Coast was ar- 
ranged, one. might almost say, on the spur of 
the moment; consequently I had had no 
time to decide what were the most impor- 
tant points to be visited. 

Upon reaching San Francisco my first de- 
sire was to find a small guide book which 
would give me this information, such a guide 
as can be bought at almost any station in 
Europe. 

I called at several book stores that morn- 
ing, at railroad ticket offices and at Cook's, 
only to receive the same answer at each place, 
namely, that there was no such guide, but 
that I could be given a guide to the city, or a 
map of the city. This was not what I wanted ; 
I wanted a guide, no matter how slight, to 
that region, to the West Coast of the United 
States of America. 

Thinking that others may have experienced 
this same want, I offer this very inadequate 
effort, which I feel sure will be better than 
nothing. 

I cannot attempt to go into any details, 
11 



12 INTRODUCTION 

but shall try to mention the most important 
points and give a few helpful suggestions as 
to how best to see them. 

This is in no way an historical guide book. 

Some slight explanation is necessary as to 
the manner in which I have attempted to 
place before my readers the actual crossing 
of the continent. 

Leaving the Atlantic Coast, say from New 
York, three separate times. 

First, giving a sketch of the trip out by 
the most northern routes to San Francisco; 
secondly, starting from New York again 
and crossing by any one of the central lines 
to San Francisco; and thirdly, leaving any 
one of the far Eastern cities, going south to 
New Orleans, by either train or steamer, and 
across by the most southern route, known as 
** The Sunset Route " to San Francisco. 



TRANSCONTINENTAL ROUTES 

There are six main Transcontinental 
routes, one to the extreme north, the Cana- 
dian Pacific Railroad, one to the extreme 
south, known as The Sunset Route, and four 
intermediate. 

I can make no suggestions as to which is 
best, because each has its own advantages. 
They are all excellently arranged routes, 
managed by the most courteous and pains- 
taking gentlemen, who will arrange round 
trip tickets, taking in any particular points 
which one decides to see, making any stops or 
side trips. Therefore, first decide what you 
want to see en route — shall it be The Grand 
Canon? the Yellowstone National Park? 
the Yosemite Valley? Will you go by the 
most northern, the extreme southern, or one 
of the central routes? What cities shall be 
visited? One can procure stop-overs for any 
number of places, and there are many tempta- 
tions to stop on each line. 

Take for example the most northern routes, 
the Canadian Pacific Railroad and the 
13 



14 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Northern Pacific, the former with its won- 
derfully arranged trips where one travels 
through the great American Eockies — what 
scenery could be finer? One stands amazed 
at the feats of engineering which have been 
carried through all along these lines. One 
rocky giant after another looms up before us, 
their bald heads seeming to pierce the very 
sky, while the snow lies many feet deep on 
their sides. The Selkirks defy description! 
the train glides through one wonderful pass 
after another. Having taken the Canadian 
Pacific Eailway, arrange to stop at Banff, the 
gateway to the Canadian Rockies. The rail- 
road has as fine a hotel there as can be found 
anywhere, from which may be made many 
splendid excursions in the vicinity, all of 
which are easily accessible by motor, carriage, 
horseback or on donkeys. The lake, about 
nine miles off, known as Lake Minnewanka, 
16 miles long, makes a delightful excursion; 
this lake, whose waters are very deep, is walled 
in by tremendous cliffs ; steam launches make 
the round trip. 

Continuing westward from here, we come, 
in about two hours, to Laggan, the station for 
Lalce Louise. Leaving the train, we board an 
incline car and are taken part way up one of 
these splendid mountains to where this inde- 



TRANSCONTINENTAL ROUTES 15 

scribable gem, Lake Louise, suddenly bursts 
upon our sight. There is nothing finer than 
this spot in Switzerland ; the lake, 5,645 feet 
above sea level, lies in a hollow at the base of 
three wonderful mountains, and at the far 
end, in the most dramatic setting, is the su- 
perb Victoria Glacier, facing directly the 
Chateau Lake Louise, where we immediately 
apply for rooms looking out upon this mar- 
vellous view. As soon as you have had lunch- 
eon, start out and walk round the lake, four 
or five miles. This gives you an intimate, 
friendly feeling, which will almost undoubt- 
edly be succeeded by a feeling of awe, as the 
majestic splendor of the place grows upon 
you. 

From here a most interesting set of moun- 
tain trips may be made by either road or 
bridle path; the latter is the favorite, as one 
can go farther and climb higher. I cannot go 
into detail, but at the Chateau one gets full 
information, horses, guides, etc. Do not fail 
to see Mirror Lake (altitude 6,550 feet), or 
Lake Agnes (altitude 6,820 feet), truly a lake 
in the clouds, and encircled by majestic peaks. 
The beauty of this region could not be exag- 
gerated. 

The '' Valley of the Ten Peaks,'' I think, is 
unique, and this is a trip all can take, a 10- 



16 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

mile drive over good roads. I believe this is 
the most impressive spot I have ever seen; I 
shall attempt no description. If possible, give 
at least five days to Lake Louise. 

Leaving Laggan, we pass through Field, 
where another stop may be m:.de, and various 
excursions taken. 

Glacier, near the summit of the inexpress- 
ibly beautiful Selkirk range, really ought not 
to be passed by, and here again, comfortable 
accommodations have been arranged. Mount 
Sir Donald, pointed out as we pass, rises to a 
height of more than a mile from the railroad. 
At Sicamous again there is the temptation to 
stop and explore, for we are nearing the end 
of the 500 miles of the Rocky Mountain range, 
through which we pass. Beyond Ashcroft we 
enter the Canon of the Thompson, through 
which we rush on into Fraser Canon, through 
Agassiz and Mission Junction, and about 50 
miles farther on we reach Vancouver. I at-, 
tempt no description for the reason that all 
cities are to be omitted in my small guide, as 
adequate information and local maps can 
always be had in every metropolis. 

One might spend weeks taking the trips on 
Puget Sound alone, for this is one of the most 
beautiful bits of salt water to be found any- 
where. The mountains seem to rise right out 



TRANSCONTINENTAL ROUTES 17 

of the water, and are wooded to the water's 
edge. These countless excursions are well ar- 
ranged by the Oregon, Washington Railroad 
and Navigation Company, who will send full 
particulars upon application. 



There where the livid tundras keep their tryst 

with the tranquil snows; 
There where the silences are spawned, and the 

light of hell-fire flows 
Into the bowl of the midnight sky, violet, amber 

and rose. 

There where the rapids churn and roar, and the 

ice-floes bellowing run; 
Where the tortured, twisted rivers of blood rush 

to the setting sun." 

ROBEET W. SeBVICE. 



ALASKA 

The trip to Alaska may be made from Van- 
couver, as well as from various other points. 
It is possible to take the steamer direct from 
San Francisco. For information in regard to 
this trip apply to the Pacific Coast Steamship 
Company. 

Captain R. H. Stretch, whose many years 
of connection as an engineer with mining and 
railroad enterprises in the West and Alaska 
render him an authority, says : ' ' Alaska is 
a country unique in its geographical situa- 
tion, unique in its climate and unique in its 
physical beauties. Cape Barrow, its north- 
ernmost cape, is warmer than any point in the 
world as far north of the equator; and its 
southern shores bordering the North Pacific 
Ocean are likewise warmer than any point in 
the world in similar latitudes during the win- 
ter months, as the result of the beneficent in- 
fluence of the Japan current. Norway alone 
can approach it in these respects, but in 
Norway the mountain backbone runs parallel 
to the coastline, and its rivers are insignificant 
19 



20 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

streams, and there is no room for extensive 
valleys; while in Alaska the immense quad- 
rangle is divided into three zones by lofty 
mountains, . . . which leave between them 
broad plains, through which such streams as 
the Kuskokwin, with 600, and the Yukon, 
with 2,000 miles of navigable waters, open up 
its vast interior. Norway and Sweden are the 
Mecca and Medina of the European tourists 
in search of the picturesque and sublime, and 
the latter country takes its annual toll of 
American pilgrims on similar sights intent; 
but Alaska can discount anything which these 
countries can boast. Its mountains overtop 
Mont Blanc, the Jungfrau or the Mat- 
terhorn; its glaciers dwarf the Mer de 
Glace. . . . 

' ' At the Childs glacier you may loll at ease 
by the river bank on a carpet of flowers, while 
the glacier splits with a noise like a cannon 
shot or the staccato reports of small arms, and 
watch avalanche after avalanche start 300 feet 
above, driving the water in mighty waves up 
the gravel slope below you as they take the 
final plunge and float away in the narrow 
river. When the mist has drifted by, the 
dead-white face of the ice disappears. The 
new dress glistens with the brilliancy of dia- 
monds, and the deeper recesses of the fagade 



ALASKA 21 

gleam blue as a summer sky unflecked by- 
clouds. 

" The charm of the glaciers is never end- 
ing. . . . The peace and silence of the rock^ 
bound fiords, clad in green, with the snowy 
peaks of far-off mountains, gleaming through 
the tree tops on the skyline, suggest the de- 
lights of Lotus land; picture after picture 
more beautiful than anything that the Hud- 
son can show, or either Norway or the Rhine 
can boast. . . . There are sunsets such as 
no painter could ever put on canvas, veritable 
vortices of flame, as though the world was on 
fire. , . . Even the sun is loath to leave the 
scene which his warmth has endowed with 
life, and forsakes it only for a few minutes 
at midnight. 

" Along the Alaska Peninsula the tourist 
may witness in safety the tremendous pent- 
up energy of the internal fires ; islands raised 
from the bottom of the ocean one year, only to 
be engulfed the next, as at Bogoslop. . . ." 

Here may be seen ' ' The crowning peaks of 
a mountain range which, dividing to the east, 
culminate in Mount McKinley, 20,464* feet 
high, north of Cook Inlet; and Mounts St. 



* The altitudes in this book are taken, as far as 
possible, from "A Dictionary of Altitudes," pub- 
lished by the U. S. Government. 



22 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Elias and Fairweather and their cold virginal 
sisters, grim guardians of the northern shores 
of the Pacific. These stupendous mountain 
masses (a mile taller than Switzerland's 
champion), their feet buried under a glacier, 
which lines the coast for more than 100 miles, 
are even more impressive than the loftiest of 
the world 's famous peaks, either in the Hima- 
layas or the Andes ; for while these rise from 
lofty interior plateaus, the sweep of St. Elias 
is from ocean to sky, with nothing to break 
the foreground. . . . The scenic beauties of 
Alaska, whether they be of earth or water or 
of sky, are varied enough to bring enthu- 
siasm to the lips of the most blase traveller. ' ' 
Those desiring to make the trip to Alaska 
from Seattle can get full information from 
any of the following companies in Seattle; 

The Alaska Steamship Company. 

Pacific Coast Steamship Company. 

Canadian Pacific Steamship Line. 

Alaska Coast Company, or the 

Grand Trunk Pacific Steamship Company. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 

The Glacier National Park is situated in 
the northwest of Montana. The reservation 
is 915,000 acres in extent, and contains 260 
lakes and 80 glaciers, varying from five square 
miles to a few acres in area. 

Here, as in all of the other great National 
Parks of our Western country, camps have 
been provided and good care is taken of the 
tourist. 

It is quite impossible for one to attempt a 
description of all these parks without a very 
long list of new adjectives, for nature has 
been more than generous in dowering this 
part of the world with wonderful scenery. 
See Lakes McDonald, St. Mary, McDuff and 
Iceberg Lake; this last is almost surrounded 
by great towering cliffs, many of them rising 
to an elevation of 2,000 feet, in the crevices 
of which lie large glaciers. In the short 
space of time which the average tourist gives 
to this spot, he is frequently rewarded by 
hearing and seeing some great fragment 
break from its parent glacier and crash into 
the water, where, in the form of small ice- 



24 CALIFORNIA AND TEE WEST 

bergs, they are always seen floating ; hence the 
name of the lake. 

On the borders of Lake St. Mary you will 
be shown a most beautiful and impressive 
mountain, known as the Sun Mountain, very 
much beloved by the Indians, who point out 
on its side the head of the Great Spirit. They 
will tell you that after his visit to them on 
earth, he ascended this mountain and from 
its summit, where they will show his last te- 
pee (a triangular mount), he returned to 
the home from which he came. 



BLACKFEET GLACIER 

Blackfeet Glacier is the largest and by far 
the most impressive in the Park; none but 
hardy mountain climbers should attempt the 
ascent. 

The Park is reached by the Great Northern 
Railroad, from either Belton or Glacier Park. 
There is a good road from Belton to the foot 
of Lake McDonald, two miles. From here 
trails lead into the Park, exploring the greater 
portion. Numerous trips can be made from 
Lake McDonald. This most beautiful spot, 
Glacier Park, is almost solely for the benefit 
of camping parties at present, there being no 



BLACKFEET GLACIER 25 

hotels in the Park, but comfortable, perma- 
nent camps have been established within one 
day's walk of each other, from 8 to 16 miles 
apart. 

At Glacier Park Station there is a fine 
hotel, and from here a wagon road has been 
built to Upper St. Mary Lake, a distance of 
about 32 miles. This is a beautiful drive, 
v»dth many lovely mountain views. But Gla- 
cier Park is not a place to be taken as a 
scenic spot to be visited en route; it is a place 
to go to for a month, for wonderful tramping, 
for just living out of doors. By far the most 
attractive way to see the Park is on foot. 
Walking tours can be made at a cost of $3.25 
to $3.50 per day by using the delightful little 
chalet camps, or if a party takes its own outfit, 
having neither guides nor horses, the trip can 
be made for much less than that. 

Automobiles leave Glacier Park Station for 
St. Mary Lake Camp daily at about 9 A.M., 
returning to Glacier Park at about 6 P.M. 
The round trip ($5.00) need not be made the 
same day. One small piece of hand baggage, 
not exceeding 20 pounds in weight, will be 
carried free. 

Travellers going to a place like this, es- 
pecially women, should be prepared with 
proper clothing — a stout, short walking suit, 



26 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

with a warm extra jacket, heavy common- 
sense walking boots, a comfortable hat and 
light, warm sleeping apparel. 



CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 

From Shasta Springs, via the Southern 
Pacific, a short line runs to Klamath Falls, 
in the extreme south of Oregon, the center of 
this most interesting region, so named from 
the Klamath Indians. The attention of the 
general public was first called to this spot 
by a great U. S. Government irrigating pro- 
ject, which is still under way, and is to water 
some 200,000 acres of fertile soil. Crater 
Lake National Park is reached by automobile 
from Klamath Falls; the lake lies upon the 
summit of the Cascade Mountains, in the 
basin of an extinct volcano. It is about five 
miles in diameter. The elevation of the lake 
is 6,239 feet, the depth 2,000 feet, added to 
which the water lies about 1,000 feet below 
the rim of the crater. The color cannot be de- 
scribed; it is like some great sparkling jewel 
set in the dull bronze lava, and worn with 
pride upon the breast of this lovely Cascade 
Range. 

Guests are at present accommodated at the 



THE GRAND COULEE 27 

Lake in tents, but a fine hotel is being built, 
also a boulevard around the rim ; although the 
altitude of the rim is so great, tourist cars 
mount without difficulty. 

One might almost say in going West that 
all roads lead to San Francisco, and in this 
small guide they will, so whether we cross the 
continent by the most northern route, the 
most southern, or any one of the central lines, 
it will bring us to San Francisco. 



THE GRAND COULEE * 

'* In the heart of the vast lava plains 
which occupy a large part of the States of 
Washington, Idaho and Oregon, lies the 
Grand Coulee, a natural feature of grandeur 
and wild beauty, which is well worthy of a 
place among the wonder sights of America, 
but which is practically unknown and un- 
visited at the present time. . . . 

* ' The Grand Coulee is a great dry gorge or 
canon, cut by the Columbia River when it 
was diverted from its course ages ago in the 
glacial period. . . . 

' ' It extends nearly 100 miles across a part 

*Mr. Winthrop P. Haynes, "The Grand Coulee," 
published in American Forestry for May, 1914. 



28 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

of the so-called ' Big Bend ' region of the 
Columbia River. ... 

' ' This enormous dry canon, with its numer- 
ous beautiful lakes and its site of a great pre- 
historic waterfall, which was as high as the 
Victoria Falls of the Zambesi Eiver in Africa 
and of much greater extent, may be visited 
by tourists travelling over the Northern Pa- 
cific Eailway, by leaving the main line at 
Spokane and travelling over the branch line 
125 miles to Coulee City, a small town situ- 
ated on the level floor of the Upper Coulee, 
just at the point to get most of the interesting 
views of the curious region." Here guests 
can get comfortable accommodations and from 
here make the various trips by automobile, 
carriage, horseback or on foot. One should 
see, first, the site of the ancient cataract, with 
its 400- to 440-foot wall, which separates the 
Upper from the Lower Coulee. About four 
miles further on, one comes to the brink of the 
western margin, and following a short dis- 
tance a wonderful panorama is disclosed, 
hummocks and hollows, lakes and pools, 
some of clear and some of strongly saline 
water. 

The basalt rock of the cliffs turns a rusty 
brown under the effects of the weather, and is 
frequently covered with orange or greenish- 



YANCOUVEB TO SAN FRANCISCO 29 

yellow lichens in great patches, so that the 
cliffs are a glorious riot of color. 

The eastern branch of the Lower Coulee is 
in many respects the most interesting and 
beautiful, because it is comparatively narrow 
and a large part of it is occupied by a long, 
narrow lake, bordered by vertical cliffs; this 
is called Deep Lake. A charming walk of 
about two miles takes one to this part. 

A visit to this region is a unique and in- 
teresting experience. 

VANCOUVER TO SAN FRANCISCO 

In going down the West Coast it is well to 
break the railway journey by taking the 
steamer from Vancouver to Victoria, on the 
Island of Vancouver (five hours), stopping 
here at least for luncheon and continuing 
again by boat from Victoria to either Seattle 
or Tacoma (four to five hours). There is a 
splendid hotel at Victoria, "■ The Empress,'^ 
and this delightful city, the capital of British 
Columbia, makes an ideal headquarters from 
which to take the trip on Puget Sound. These 
two cities, Seattle and Tacoma, should both 
be visited, not only for themselves, though 
they have so much to boast of, but for the 
trips which may be made from them. 



30 CALIFOBNIA AND THE WEST 

Here, after having left behind us the great 
Eocky Mountains, the beautiful Cascade 
Range greets us, with such fine individual 
peaks as Mount Hood, 11,225 feet; Mount 
Eainier-Tacoma, 14,526 feet; Mount St. Hel- 
ens, 10,000 feet; Mount Adams, 12,470 feet, 
and Mount Baker, each unusually perfect in 
outline, and here again endless side trips may 
be made. 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 

*' Mount Rainier National Park is situated 
in western Washington, about 51 miles from 
Tacoma. It has an area of 207,360 acres, and 
includes Mount Rainier and all of its ap- 
proaches. 

" One of the largest glacial systems in the 
world radiating from any single peak is sit- 
uated on this mountain. . . . 

*' The southern part of the Park is reached 
by rail to Ashford, on the Tacoma Eastern 
Railroad (Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul 
Railroad), thence via automobile stage to 
Longmire Springs, in the Park, six miles from 
the western boundary. . . . 

" The trip may be made by automobile 
over good roads from Seattle and Tacoma. 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 31 

Campers generally secure outfits in these 
cities and drive to the Park. The northern 
part of the Park is reached by rail to Fairfax, 
on the Northern Pacific Railroad, from which 
point only trails lead into and through the 
Park. . . . 

'' Provisions and supplies may be secured 
at Ashford, Longmire Springs and Fairfax. 
Guides may be had at Longmire Springs and 
Camp of the Clouds, and are prepared to 
furnish Alpine stocks, glasses, shoe nails, 
etc. . . . 

'' Arrangements need not be made with 
guides located at these points, nor for saddle 
horses before entering the Park. In making 
the trip in the northern part of the Park ar- 
rangements should be made at Fairfax in 
advance for guides and horses. The usual 
charge is $3.00 per day for guide and $2.00 
per day for each horse. Guides are not per- 
mitted to take more than eight persons in a 
party. . . . 

'' The season of tourist travel is confined 
largely to June, July, August, September and 
the first part of October, although parties of 
tourists enter the Park for snowshoeing and 
winter sports. . 

*' The summit of Mount Rainier is acces- 
sible from Camp of the Clouds, in Paradise 



32 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Valley, and from St. Elmo Pass, on the north- 
ern side. The difficulty of the ascent depends 
largely upon the condition of the snow fields, 
which varies from year to year. It is danger- 
ous and sliould not he attempted unless the 
party is accompanied hy an official guide. 

*' The charge made by guides for making 
the ascent of Mount Rainier is $25.00 for one 
person and $5.00 for each additional person. 

" The Government Road, running through 
this Park and for some distance beyond 
Camp of the Clouds, makes it easily accessible 
for tourists. Near Paradise Valley and at 
the headquarters of Tahoma Fork is Indian 
Henry's Hunting Ground, so named from 
the circumstance that it was formerly the 
favorite resort of a small band of Klickitat 
Indians." * 

The drive to this Park from either Tacoma 
or Seattle is wonderfully beautiful. One 
might write endless descriptions and still con- 
vey no idea. In one part the traveller looks 
down a sheer drop of 1,000 feet to where the 
lovely Nisqually River is seen winding its 
way to the sea. Again looking off toward 
snow-clad peaks, past dashing mountain 
streams, passing between caiion-like walls, 
this splendid road leads on, giving the happy 
* Department of the Interior, U. S. A. 



BOW TO CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER 33 

tourist one surprise after another, until the 
great Nisqually Glacier is seen a few hundred 
feet away, and we find that we have come to 
the end of the motor road. From here the 
trip must be made by stage or on horseback, 
the road ending only where the eternal snows 
begin. 



HOW TO CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER 

** The ascent of Mount Rainier is ordinarily 
made from Paradise Park by what is known 
as the Gibraltar route. This route, which is 
the one General Hazard Stevens and P. B. 
Van Trump originally selected for their pio- 
neer climb of 1870, has proven to be by far 
the safest and most convenient of all the 
routes by which the old volcano has been at- 
tacked. Besides, it is the only route readily 
available to the tourist public, as it starts on 
the south side of the mountain, which is the 
only side so far opened up by the building of 
roads and trails, and the erection of hotels. 
The country surrounding the other sides of 
the mountain is still in its virgin state of 
wildness, inhospitable and almost unfre- 
quented. 

** Generally speaking. Mount Rainier is 



34 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

not an easy peak ta climb. The great alti- 
tude of its summit (14,526 feet above sea 
level) and the low level of the region about 
its base (between 2,000 and 5,000 feet) make 
the ascent an exceedingly long and exhausting 
one. Dangerously crevassed ice covers a large 
proportion of its flanks, while the sharp ridges 
between the glaciers are composed of treach- 
erous crumbling lava and pumice. Those who 
have set their ambition on making the ascent 
will do well, therefore, to realize at the outset 
that there is no choice of routes, and that 
should one lose the beaten trail there is little 
or no hope of extricating oneself by another 
way. Several lives have been lost on the 
mountain, in every case by parties venturing 
out without the aid of guides. 

* ' There are several reasons for securing the 
services of a competent guide. In the first 
place, the route does not consist of a definitely 
marked path. It leads for miles over snow 
fields, on which footprints melt away from 
one day to the next. In the second place, it 
is necessary in order that one may be able to 
return before dusk, to start out at 1 o'clock 
in the morning ; and, as a consequence, a con- 
siderable distance has to be traversed in the 
dark, before daybreak. No one unfamiliar 
with the ground should undertake to do this 



HOW TO CLIMB MOV NT RAINIER 35 

without a guide. Again, the rock-climbing 
up the Cowlitz Cleaver and Gibraltar Rock 
is not altogether without hazard, and is not 
to be attempted unaided, except by experi- 
enced, skillful mountaineers. 

' ' Further, most people do not know how to 
handle themselves on a long and difficult as- 
cent, not having had sufficient experience in 
mountain climbing. They are apt to rush 
eagerly at the start, thus using up their 
strength before the hard work is reached. 
The guide is there, not merely to show them 
the way, but to tell them how to climb, how 
fast to go, when to rest and to take nourish- 
ment, and to take care of them in case they 
are taken with mountain sickness. 

' ' Finally, account must be taken of the ex- 
ceeding fickleness of the weather conditions on 
the mountain. None but those familiar with 
Rainier 's many moods can presume to foretell 
whether the day will turn out favorable for a 
climb or not. What may look to the unini- 
tiated like harmless, fleecy vapors on the sum- 
mit may be the forerunners of a sudden snow- 
storm, which no one could hope to live 
through. Practically all those who have per- 
ished on the mountain have been overcome 
by blizzard-like storms. Such storms may 
occur even in midsummer, and on the sum- 



36 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

mil are always attended by fierce gales, 
against which it is impossible to hold one's 
footing. 

** Camp of the Clouds, in Paradise Park, is 
the logical base from which to make the climb. 
It lies at an altitude of 5,558 feet, near the 
timber line. Accommodations may there be 
had by the day or week; guides may be se- 
cured, and through them such necessaries as 
Alpine stocks, amber glasses, calks and hob- 
nails, and actors' paint to protect the face 
from sunburn, etc. 

'' The first 4,500 feet of the climb lie, for 
the most part, though not wholly, over snow 
fields. These are crisp and hard before the 
sun touches them, but once softened make 
very heavy walking ; hence another reason for 
starting before daybreak. At sunrise one 
arrives at Camp Muir (10,060 feet), a saddle 
at the base of a narrow rock spur known as 
the Cowlitz Cleaver. One may make a stop 
here, but there is no comfort to be expected, 
for one is some 4,000 feet above the highest 
vegetation and there is no fuel to be had. 
Low rock walls afford partial shelter from the 
westerly winds. 

' ' The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite 
taxing, being mostly over rough, angular lava 
blocks. By 8 o'clock the base of Gibraltar 



EOW TO CLIMB MOUNT BAINIEB 37 

Eock is reached. A narrow ledge is followed 
along the face of the cliff, part of the way 
overhung by rock masses and huge icicles, 
and this ledge leads to the base of a narrow 
chute between the ice of the upper Nisqually 
Glacier and the body of Gibraltar. This 
chute offers the most serious difficulties in the 
ascent, and women should not attempt it with 
skirts. Bloomers are here a necessity. Ropes 
are usually suspended from the cliffs whereby 
one may assist himself upward. It is wise to 
move one at a time, as there is ever danger 
of the persons above starting rock, debris and 
ice fragments that may injure those under 
them. The ascent and descent of the chute 
are, therefore, inevitably time-consuming. 
Ordinarily the saddle above Gibraltar (12,600 
feet) is not reached until 10 o'clock. 

*' From Gibraltar on there remains only a 
long snow slope to climb, but this snow slope 
is often exceedingly fatiguing. Huge, gaping 
crevasses develop in it which must be skill- 
fully avoided by detours. Freshly-fallen 
snow may be so deep that one plunges into it 
to the waist, or else the snow may have melted 
out into * seracs ' or so-called honeycombs 
many feet high, among which one cannot 
travel without considerable exertion. 

** The rim of the south crater is usually 



38 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

reached about 11 o'clock. It is always bare of 
snow, and shelter from the high gales may be 
found behind the great rock blocks on the 
crest. Metal cases are left here, in which the 
tourist may inscribe the record of his ascent. 

' ' The crater is always filled with snow and 
may be traversed without risk, only one should 
be careful near the edges, as the snow there 
is melted in caverns by the steam jets which 
rise from beneath it in many places. Those 
having the strength may go on to Columbia 
Crest, a snow dome constituting the highest 
summit of the mountain. The return to Camp 
of the Clouds is easily made in from five to 
six hours. 

'* In conclusion it may be well to sound a 
word of caution to the over-ambitious. The 
climb is such a long one and the altitude 
gained so high that none but those who have 
previously prepared themselves by prelim- 
inary shorter climbs can hope to accomplish 
the feat with anything like genuine enjoy- 
ment. Altogether too many people have at- 
tempted the ascent immediately upon arrival 
from the city, without having permitted their 
hearts and lungs to become accustomed to the 
rarefied air of the higher altitudes, and with- 
out having toughened their muscles for the 
great task. As a consequence they have either 



HOW TO CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER 39 

come back exhausted to the verge of collapse 
or else they have altogether failed in the un- 
dertaking. And there is unfortunately more 
than one case on record of persons who have 
permanently injured their health by such an 
ill-considered proceeding. 

** It is wise upon arrival to spend several 
days — the more the better — in climbing about 
at lesser altitudes. A favorite try-out is an 
ascent of Pinnacle Peak, on the Tatoosh 
Eange. It affords useful lessons in every kind 
of climbing that one may be called upon to 
do in conquering the main peak. 

** Moderation in diet and the avoidance of 
heavy food of any sort are precautions that 
cannot be too urgently recommended. One 
should bear in mind that he is preparing for 
the most heroic kind of athletic work, and that 
such work is impossible on the conventional 
diet followed by most people. 

" Before starting on the ascent of Mount 
Rainier, do not eat such articles as fried eggs, 
fried potatoes, hot cakes or heavy pastry. 
Abstain from coffee and tobacco, if possible. 
Spirituous liquor of any kind is taboo, ex- 
cept as a stimulant in case of collapse. Beef 
tea, lean meat, all dry breakfast foods, cocoa, 
sweet chocolate, crackers, hardtack, dry bread, 
rice, raisins, prunes, and tomatoes are in 



40 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

order. The simpler the diet, on the whole, the 
more beneficial it is likely to be. Never eat 
much at a sitting during the ascent, but eat 
often and little at a time. These are rules 
well known to mountaineers. The more faith- 
fully one complies with them the higher one 's 
efficiency will be and the keener the enjoy- 
ment of the trip." * 

This is given as an example only. The west- 
ern part of the United States is full of great 
mountain peaks, and if one is prepared to 
climb any one peak, the same rules apply 
to all. 

The region about Seattle and Tacoma is a 
veritable paradise for motorists, fine roads 
having been built in almost every direction. 
It is quite impossible to enumerate them, but 
for those planning to pass any length of time 
in this region I would suggest that they write 
to the Oregon, Washington Railroad and 
Navigation Company for a most attractive 
booklet called '' The Land That Lures," 
which they are only too glad to provide and 
which gives much information on this part of 
the country. 

From here down through Portland to San 

*A11 that I have given in connection with this 
Park and Mountain is from a U. S. Government 
circular — General Statement, 1913, Depart ment of 
the Interior. 



PORTLAND 41 

Francisco runs a first class express, *' The 
Shasta Limited/' where one may enjoy to the 
full all the elaborate modern railway luxuries. 



PORTLAND 

Portland is a city of peculiar charm ; built 
tapon rolling ground, between the Cascade 
Mountains and the ocean, it is provided with 
unusually fine scenery. The Rose Festival, 
held here each year in June, has attracted 
great attention, but there seems to be a pro- 
fusion of these lovely flowers here all the^ 
year round. It is well named '' The City 
of Roses.'* 

Back of the city, or rather to the west, rises 
Council Crest, a splendid hill commanding a 
most unusual view. Tourists who cannot ar- 
range to stay in Portland can get a lasting im- 
pression of its charm by stopping a few hours 
and motoring, or even going by trolley, to this 
spot. In the park there is an observatory, 
from which may be had an ideal view of the 
fine snow-clad mountains of the Cascade 
Range, Mount Rainier-Tacoma, Mount St. 
Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Hood and 
Mount Jefferson. These white monarchs stand 
far enough apart to be utterly unspoiled; 



42 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

each is entirelj^ different in outline from the 
others, and the lights and shadows and cloud 
effects from here cannot be excelled. Port- 
land, with her two unusually beautiful rivers, 
the Willamette and the Columbia, and the 
ever changing view of these mountains, may 
well be envied by many less fortunately placed 
cities. From here again numberless delight- 
ful excursions may be made. 



MOUNT HOOD (11,225 FEET) 

Mount Hood is reached by automobile from 
Portland. It is a 55-mile drive, through in; 
teresting country. There is a Government 
camp on the S9uth slope, and the return trip 
can be made in a day, or for those with a little 
more time, '* Cloud Cap Inn," on the north 
side, may be better. There are many trips 
from the Inn to points of interest, the trip to 
the summit being the most popular. This is 
said to be the easiest peak in the West to 
climb. The tourist should dress as for any 
mountain climb, in loose, light, warm cloth- 
ing. Guides are also necessary here. For the 
last 300 yards a rope is used, but when the 
top is gained all else is forgotten, for the 
view defies description. 



THE COLUMBIA RIVER TRIP 43 

For full particulars regarding this beauti- 
ful spot write to the Travel Bureau, 69 Fifth 
Street, Portland, Oregon. 



THE COLUMBIA RIVER TRIP 

This trip by steamer is made daily, during 
the summer months, leaving Portland at 7 
A.M. The steamer goes all the way up to The 
Dalles, 88 miles, and through such scenery; 
as few rivers can equal. The snow-crowned 
tops of the Cascade Range, with their gla- 
ciers and dashing mountain streams, greet 
the eye from time to time, while magnificent 
cataracts lend excitement; add to this the 
unending mystery of the deep, dark canons 
and gorges, and what more can one ask for a 
river trip ? I hear some say, ^ ' Castles ! Oh, 
the castles on the Rhine ! ' ' This river too has 
its castles, only at present they are air castles. 
They will materialize some day. Give us 
time — all else is there. 

The Pillars of Hercules are twin monuments 
of great height, one rising almost from the 
water's edge and the other separated by a 
distance of but a few feet. Castle Rock, 
which, we are told, was a lookout station for 
the Indians, rises 1,146 feet above the river. 



44 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

This rock was not scaled by white men until 
1901. 

The waters of Multonomah Falls have a 
sheer drop of 800 feet into a great rock basin. 
These are the finest falls on the Columbia 
Eiver. The spray-filled air gives out beauti- 
ful rainbow colors. A charming trail leads 
to the upper falls. 

A little farther on we come to a gorge, 
Oneonta, which is like one great garden. It 
leads back into the hills for a distance of 
about one mile, and is carpeted with exquisite 
ferns and flowers. 



CASCADES 

It is claimed that at the Cascades, 45 miles 
east of Portland, a natural bridge once 
spanned the river, the ruins of which now lie 
in the river bed, obstructing the flow and 
impeding navigation. 

The story as told by Balch in his * ' Bridge 
of the Gods " is as follows : ' ' The red men 
tell how Mount Hood and Mount Adams, sit- 
uated on opposite sides of the river, engaged 
in controversy, leading to a quarrel, and they 
resolved to engage in combat. Advancing to 
a common center, they met on the bridge. 



ASTORIA 45 

Their combined weight was too much for the 
structure and it crumbled beneath its load. 
The conflict was thus avoided and the peaks 
returned to their respective places." 

A canal has been constructed through these 
rapids, permitting steamers to pass. 

Leaving the Cascades and passing through 
the gorge, we reach Hood Eiver, the great gla- 
cial stream coming down from the mountain 
of the same name. The valley through which 
this river passes is famous both at home and 
abroad for its marvellous fruits, its apples es- 
pecially. 



ASTORIA 

There are many trips to the beach from 
Portland. At Astoria, near the mouth of the 
Columbia River, the great water craft attract 
attention. Here the river is five miles wide 
and there are fine fisheries. Across the river 
from Astoria and extending from Columbia 
to Willapa Harbor, is a peninsula known as 
North Beach. This is a popular summer re- 
sort, with a superb beach, an unbroken stretch 
of sand 26 miles long and from 200 to 400 
feet wide, according to the tides. 

Any amount of exploring may be done on 



46 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

the coast of Oregon, which is wild, rugged, 
and wooded in places almost to the water's 
edge. 

Various trips on, or beside, the Willamette 
River, which flows into the Columbia 12 miles 
below Portland, can also be made from this 
city. 

Continuing south from Portland, a fine 
view of Mount Shasta, 14,380 feet, one of the 
most beautiful of mountains, is enjoyed, and 
we pass through the lovely Shasta Springs 
country, and finally reach San Francisco, the 
greatest of the Western cities. 



SHASTA SPRINGS 

** The Springs are situated near the rail- 
road tracks. The well-known Shasta Water 
is bottled and shipped from here. 

*' A scenic railway takes visitors from the 
station through the pine woods and beside 
running creeks and cascades to the Shasta 
Springs Hotel, situated on the plateau above. 
From Shasta Springs, a 50-mile private auto- 
mobile boulevard has recently been con- 
structed to the Mc Cloud River. The journey 
over this road is one of indescribable beauty, 
with Mount Shasta in sight most of the way. 



SHASTA SPRINGS 47 

There are numerous other drives about Shasta 
Springs which invite the motorist. . . . 

" From here the railroad continues to Sis- 
son, a town at the foot of Mount Shasta. A 
point of interest is the State Fish Hatchery, 
which raises millions of fish each year, prin- 
cipally trout, and with them stocks the rivers 
and streams of California. This fish hatchery, 
which is open to the public, is the largest in 
the world. . . . 

** Mount Shasta, usually ascended from 
Sisson, is practically a single cone of an ex- 
tinct volcano. A road runs from Sisson to 
the timber line, whence the ascent is made by 
trail. It is the usual custom to camp for the 
night at the timber line, thus making the 
climb to the summit and return in one day. 
Guides for the trip can be secured at the 
hotels. The ascent is not especially diffi- 
cult. 

' ' From the summit of Mount Shasta there 
is one of the most magnificent views to be had 
anywhere, both in extent and variety of 
scenery. At the top of the mountain there are 
many evidences of the volcanic origin of the 
peak; gteam still emerges from the higher 
crevices and molten sulphur bubbles out near 
the summit. There are also remarkable lava 
caves, caused by the cooling of the outer crust 



48 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

of the lava, while the molten core flowed out. 
Some of these caves, or lava tubes, are very 
extensive, one being three-quarters of a mile 
long."* 

*Drury, "Tourist's Guide and Handbook to Cali- 
fornia." 



FEATHER RIVER CANON 

To the south of Shasta County lies a beau- 
tiful and little-known region, the Feather 
River Canon, which has all been opened up 
to the traveller of to-day by the Western 
Pacific Railway. 

It is said that there is not any demand of 
the nature lover that cannot be fulfilled here, 
from the gently running woodland stream to 
the wildest foaming cataract dashing down 
the rugged sides of mountain heights. 

We are told that the rivers and streams teem 
with bass and trout, but I cannot speak with 
authority on this subject, for I know no one 
who has fished these waters. The suggestion 
is given for what it is worth. The northwest- 
ern section of California is, I am sure, worthy 
of all that is said of it, and will undoubtedly 
soon be as crowded with tourists as many of 
the more popular parts of this truly wonderful 
State are to-day. 



49 



THE DEVIL'S HALF ACRE 

Hot Springs Valley and the geyser coun- 
try extend some 50 miles east of Mount Las- 
sen as far as Mountain Meadows, and in this 
stretch there are over 2,000 geysers. This 
region is well named the Devil's Kitchen, or, 
as above, the Devil's Half Acre. ** Boiling 
Lake, two miles from the geysers, is a pool 
of hot water 600 feet long and 300 feet wide, 
lying between two streams of lava and with 
banks 100 feet high, ' ' from which there seems 
to be but one small outlet. The elevation of 
the cone is about 6,000 feet above sea level. 

* ' In this same region there is a ' fiery pool ' 
which hurls into the air masses of sulphur as 
large as the body of a man, and yet rising out 
of all this, only five miles from this sulphur- 
ous pool, snow-covered and serene, stands 
Mount Lassen (10,437 feet altitude)."* This 
mountain " has four distinct summits, three 
of them conspicuous, rising to a height of 
300 feet from the depression of the crater, 

* Since this was written there have been numerous 
eruptions and the crest of Mount Lassen must be 
entirely changed. 

50 



THE DEVIL'S HALF ACRE 51 

showing very plainly the action of fire and 
flame in the decomposition of the soil and rock 
which form the mountain. The entire cone 
of Lassen is 2,000 feet above the gently slop- 
ing lava plateau which forms its base, and 
although it is somewhat sharp at the peak, 
every division is easily ascended. From the 
top the view is one of wonder. Seventy miles 
away gleams Mount Shasta; across a line of 
cones and craters 150 miles long sparkles the 
diamond crown of Mount Pitt. Westward 
and southward a vast ocean of ridges fall 
lower and lower into the Sacramento Valley, 
. . . and on a clear day the vista reaches as 
far south as San Francisco Bay. . . ."* 

The Mohawk Valley is a unique spot. Here 
following the crest of the ridge for about 50 
miles is a chain of small lakes (also reached by 
the Western Pacific Railway), the largest, 
less than two miles long, surrounded by wild 
mountain country and snow-clad peaks; 
along the northern shores stretch miles of 
ideal camping ground, with the promise of 
fine fishing and a profusion of flowers that 
would gladden the heart of any botanist. 

* Genevieve Yoell Parkhurst. 



SAN FRANCISCO 

I shall not attempt to write of this great 
city, because I could not in any way do it or 
any other of the splendid Western cities jus- 
tice in this small space ; but as I said before, 
guides and maps of any of the big cities can 
be had, and let me here recommend to those 
desiring a very complete guide to the State 
of California, the '' Tourist's Guide and 
Handbook," by Drury, of Berkeley, Cali- 
fornia. One must understand a little of the 
topography of San Francisco to appreciate 
its unusual advantages. The city is built 
upon a peninsula, which juts northward 
from the mainland, being bounded on the 
south by San Mateo, on the east by the San 
Francisco Bay and on the west by the Pacific 
Ocean. 

Sausalito, of which we will speak later, is 
situated upon a peninsula jutting southward 
from the mainland to the north, and bounded 
on the east and west as San Francisco is. The 
opening between these two points, one mile 
wide, is the Golden Gate, the world-famous 
52 



SAN FRANCISCO BAY 53 

entrance to this beautiful Sa7i Francisco Bay. 
Those coming in by steamer will have the full 
benefit of the view of this great gateway. 
The bay is 50 miles long and 5 to 10 miles 
wide, and provides San Francisco with one of 
the finest harbors in the world. It is the 
largest land-locked harbor in the world. 



SAN FRANCISCO BAY 

The Bay is magnificently fortified. Points 
Lohos and Bonita are the two points reaching 
out into the Pacific Ocean, the former at the 
outer point of the crescent, which forms Bo- 
nita Cove to the north, and the latter at the 
outer point of the crescent, which forms 
South Bay to the south. These crescents ex- 
tend like great arms into the Pacific Ocean, 
forming the outer bay. At the inner points 
are Point Diablo and Fort Point, both forti- 
fied and impressive looking. Those who are 
not able to take any of the many fine excur- 
sions on the San Francisco Bay and so really 
to see the Golden Gate, should make a point 
of visiting The Presidio, the United States 
Military Reservation, where the most won- 
derful view may be had far out over the blue 
waters of the Pacific Ocean. I can think of 



54 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

no finer view than this as seen from Fort 
Winfield Scott. I have watched the most 
dramatic of sunsets over this peaceful ocean. 

The islands which lie in San Francisco Bay 
and are most noticeable from this city are 
know as Alcatraz, Angel and Yerba Buena 
Islands. They are the property of the U. S. 
Government. 

On Alcatraz is the U. S. Military Prison. 
A permit, which is necessary to visit the 
Island, may be obtained from the depot quar- 
termaster at No. 1086 North Point Street, San 
Francisco. Here permission may also be had 
to visit Angel Island, where there is a recruit- 
ing station. Fort McDowell. 

On Yerba Buena, known as Goat Island, is 
a Government Naval Training School. 

The Presidio is garrisoned by U. S. Infan- 
try, Cavalry, Field Hospital and Ambulance 
Corps. The Reservation comprises 1,500 
acres, and lies along the bay for four or five 
miles. This stretch is strongly fortified. Here 
may be seen, besides Fort Winfield Scott (as 
mentioned above), Fort McDowell, Fort 
Baker, Fort Miley and Fort Barry. 



THE GOLDEN GATE PARK 

The Golden Gate Park, of more than 1,000 
acres, reached by almost any of the trolley 
lines, will require several visits. One could 
write pages of description and still give no 
adequate idea of its charm. Laid out on sand 
hills and reclaimed ground, it is planted with 
many most unusual trees, shrubs, flowers, etc., 
and has some 20 miles of the finest drive- 
ways. 

The Japanese Tea Garden is just a bit of 
old Japan, worthy of any spot in that pic- 
turesque country. Here two dainty little 
Japanese ladies serve tea every afternoon. 
Admission to the garden is free, while one 
pays a small sum for the tea and rice cakes. A 
military band plays in the Park on Sundays 
and holiday afternoons. There are some fine 
statues. Especially unusual is The Wine 
Press, near the front of the Museum, by G. G. 
Park. The Goethe-Schiller is a replica of that 
before the theater at Weimar, Germany. On 
a small hill near Stone Lake stands Prayer 
Book Cross, erected by Mr. George William 
Childs, of Philadelphia, in commemoration of 
55 



56 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

the first English church service held on this 
continent in 1579. There are also in the Park 
a fine Playground^ an Aviary, parks of Buf- 
falo, Deer and Elk, a small but interesting 
Museum and several picturesque artificial 
lakes. 



OCEAN BEACH 

Ocean Beach, ^ith its fine Cliff House, is a 
favorite resort. Sea bathing goes on here the 
year round by strong and expert swimmers 
only, the currents being dangerous. From the 
Beach, or the Terrace, in front of the Cliff 
House, the famous Seal Rocks are easily seen, 
where one may watch the antics of hundreds 
of sea lions. A little to the north of this, 
about 100 yards, are the Sutro Baths and 
Sutro Garderis. The former have superb 
swimming tanks and a most unusual museum. 
The Sutro Baths are said to be, from a sani- 
tary point of view, the finest tanks in the 
v^orld, as they are the largest. The warm 
tanks are drained and scrubbed daily. There 
is one large pool exclusively for women, the 
others are used for mixed bathing. The Gar- 
dens are private grounds, but through the 
courtesy of the owner, have been thrown open 



OCEAN BEACH 57 

to the public. They are most beautifully 
planted and there are many unusual statues 
to be seen here. 

The picturesque Dutch Windmills in the 
Golden Gate Park were presented by a private 
citizen. They furnish water for the lakes, etc., 
in the Park. 



PANAMA-PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL 
EXPOSITION 

■ *' The main grounds of the Panama-Pacific 
International Exposition are along the bay 
shore immediately south of the Presidio, in 
the district known as Harbor View. 

' ' Here will be held, from February 20th to 
December 4th, 1915, the greatest exposition the 
world has known. The total outlay will ex- 
ceed $50,000,000. In the number and impor- 
tance of exhibits it will surpass previous ex- 
positions, and the artistic conception of the 
plans, together with the natural beauty of 
the site, will make it particularly memo- 
rable. 

*' The Exposition site comprises a tract of 
approximately 625 acres, situated in a natural 
basin open toward the Bay and surrounded 
by low hills. It has a frontage of almost 
three miles along the water. There will be 
13 main Exposition Palaces. In addition to 
the Festival Hall, these will be devoted to 
fine arts, education, manufactures, varied in- 
dustries, machinery, liberal arts, horticulture, 
transportation, mines and metallurgy, auto- 
58 



MOV NT TAMALPAIS 59 

mobiles and agriculture. Besides these, there 
will be the Government exhibit, the buildings 
of foreign countries and those of the States. 
Fully 50 acres of the Fair Grounds will be 
taken up with the gardens, presenting a mag- 
nificent horticultural display. The North 
Garden, or Esplanade, fronting the water, is 
to be known as The Marina, and through it 
will be the principal thoroughfare."* 

At this Exposition the world will celebrate 
the opening of the Panama Canal, the most 
tremendous piece of engineering which was 
ever undertaken, which has severed two great 
continents, only, we hope, to bring them 
nearer together than ever before. 



MOUNT TAMALPAIS 

From San Francisco must be made the trip 
to Mount Tamalpais (2,604 feet), crossing 
the Bay to Sausalito and from there taking 
the electric to Mill Valley, where one passes 
many charming homes. From here the ascent 
is made (about eight miles) by what, we are 
told, is the " crookedest " railroad in the 
world. Many superb views are had during 
this climb, one moment looking out across the 

* Drury. 



60 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

blue waters of the Bay, and the next piercing 
the black depth of forest, only to turn again 
to the sparkling sunlight in another moment. 
The view from the summit fully repays one 
for the trip, the Pacific Ocean stretching as 
far as the eye can reach on the one side, with 
the ships coming and going, and the San 
Francisco Bay, with its wonderful shore lines 
and well-built cities, on the other side. 



MUIR WOODS 

From a station part way up Mount Tamal- 
pais a branch line runs to Muir Woods, surely 
one of the most beautiful bits of forest to be 
seen anywhere on this earth. I cannot worth- 
ily describe the Eedwoods here — one must see 
them. Possibly the greatest charm of the place 
lies in the fact that these trees rise tall and 
erect above what to us in the East would be 
in itself a fine forest of oak, beech, maple, etc., 
the rich variegated foliage of the deciduous 
trees making a most charming contrast to the 
deep, dark green of the redwood. The trees 
grow in circular clusters, which is explained 
by the theory that the present trees are all 
off-shoots from giant trees which had stood 
there at some past time. What giants they 



BELVEDERE 61 

must have been! These circles are from 15 
to 40 feet in diameter. 

An exquisite stream flows through the Park 
and there is a fine driveway, but to enjoy it to 
the full one should walk through. It is said 
that the Eedwoods will not thrive where the 
salt fogs cannot reach them. Here the soft, 
misty veil, which floats over the woods from 
time to time, is another of its charms. It is 
to Mr. "William Kent, one of California's most 
worthy citizens, that we owe this Park. Hear- 
ing that it was for sale, he bought it, paying 
$80,000 for it, merely that it might not be de- 
stroyed, and presented it to the United States ; 
having discovered an old law enabling the 
United States to accept gifts of '' American 
antiquities, ' ' this collection was presented and 
accepted as such. The wish of the people was 
to call the Park, Kent Woods, but the modest 
donor insisted that it be named for Mr. John 
Muir, and so it is that it appears upon the 
map to-day as Muir Woods. 



BELVEDERE 

Another trip across the Bay by ferry brings 
us to Belvedere. This makes a most delightful 
afternoon's outing from San Francisco. This 



62 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

little mountain of a peninsula rises up out 
of the water in the most picturesque way, and 
is one of the loveliest spots anywhere in this 
region. A collection of beautiful homes built 
up and down the sides of the hills, each with a 
garden more alluring than the last, makes the 
whole seem a veritable Eden. The planting 
goes down almost to the water's edge — truly a 
riot of color, all seeming one great garden, 
entwined about and laced together by the ex- 
quisite green tendrils of the soft mosses. Here 
are trees of all sorts, and vines of all sorts, 
and, it seems to me, birds of all sorts. A 
happy, merry, singing little spot. 



MOUNT DIABLO 

Another interesting trip brings us by ferry 
to Oakland, and from there, via the Southern 
Pacific Eailroad, to Walnut Creek, from 
whence we drive about eight miles. This 
brings us about two-thirds of the way up 
Mount Diablo, which rises 3,850 feet above 
sea level. The remainder of the trip must be 
made either on foot or on horseback. The 
view from this summit is particularly fine be- 
cause it is so extensive. On a clear day one 
may see all the way from Mount Lassen to the 



SONOMA 63 

north, to Mount Whitney to the south, the 
view extending over the great Sacramento and 
San Joaquin Valleys. 



SONOMA 

Sonoma, some 40 miles north of San Fran- 
cisco, reached by ferry and railway, is inter- 
esting as being one of the chief centers of the 
famous California vine-growing districts. In 
this region is Santa Rosa, the home of Luther 
Burbank, where he has large experimental 
gardens. Extensive work is also done on his 
farm eight miles west of Santa Rosa, near 
Sebastopol, called the Gold Ridge Proving 
Grounds. The Farm is open to visitors. One 
hears remarkably little of Mr. Burbank. 
Owing to his great modesty there has been 
much less published in regard to his wonder- 
ful successes than there should have been. 
His experiments in fruits and grains have 
brought to this country great fortunes, and 
his flowers, such as the wonderful Shasta 
Daisy and Fire Poppy, are known to all. 
While in Santa Rosa see the church which is 
built from the wood of 07ie redwood tree. 



64 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



OAKLAND 

Oakland, five miles from San Francisco, is 
reached by ferry. This is another of Califor- 
nia's big cities; therefore I shall treat it as I 
am treating all the cities — merely mention it 
and pass through it on the way to Berkeley, 
the seat of the University of California. 



THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 

There are several entrances to the Univer- 
sity grounds, and visitors are admitted by 
any of them. The University is delightfully 
situated on the lower slopes of the Berkeley 
Hills. The site comprises about 530 acres 
of land, which rises gradually from 200 feet 
above sea level to 1,300 feet. The University 
is well endowed, tuition is free to residents 
of California and $10.00 each half year to 
non-residents. There is to be in time a won- 
derful collection of buildings, some of which 
have already been put up. The chief sight- 
seeing feature of the University is the Greek 
Theater, which seats 10,000 people. It was 
the gift of Mr. William Randolph Hearst, 
whose name, with that of Mrs. Phoebe A. 



LELAND STANFORD UNIVERSITY 65 

Hearst, can never be dissociated from this 
splendid institution. The Greek Theater 
alone would amply repay one for a trip to 
Berkeley. 

While in these grounds notice the fine old 
oaks, said to be thousands of years old, and 
the tall, graceful eucalyptus trees growing 
around the Theater. There are several 
statues, but the one in bronze, by Douglas 
Tilden, who is deaf and dumb, which is known 
as the Football Player, is especially virile. 



LELAND STANFORD JUNIOR 
UNIVERSITY 

Taking the Southern Pacific Coast Line 
from San Francisco, through San Mateo 
County, we come to Palo Alto, and from here 
can be reached the Leland Stanford Junior 
University, another great educational center, 
which, it is well known, was built and en- 
dowed by Mr. and Mrs. Leland Stanford as 
a memorial to their only child. The driveway, 
of about one mile from the entrance to the 
main buildings, is most charmingly planted 
with palms ; the grounds are beautifully kept 
on all sides. The group of buildings is prob- 
ably as fine as any to be seen in this country. 



66 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

The architecture is an adaptation of the old 
Spanish mission architecture, with long colon- 
nades, graceful arches and picturesque red 
tile roofing. The inner quadrangle consists 
of 12 one-story buildings and the Memorial 
Church, connected by a continuous open ar- 
cade. The decorations of the church are very 
ornate. They were terribly damaged in the 
recent earthquake in 1906, but are being re- 
stored. There is a sadly inartistic group of 
statuary in the quadrangle. 



SANTA CLARA AND MOUNT 
HAMILTON 

Continuing our journey a little further 
south, we come to Santa Clara and see the 
Mission and Roman Catholic University. 
From here to San Jose (Ho-sai) one gets a 
most interesting glimpse of this famous prune- 
growing district in the lovely, fertile Santa 
Clara Valley, where may be seen miles and 
miles of these fine trees, regularly planted 
and irrigated. They claim to have the largest 
fruit cannery and fruit-packing house in the 
world. The very charming San Jose, still a 
little farther south, is one of California's old 
historic cities. From here there are a number 



BIG BASIN 67 

of trips to be made, either by carriage or elec- 
tric car, the most important being Mount 
Hamilton, to see the Lick Observatory. A 
stage leaves San Jose daily, 7 :30 A.M., mak- 
ing the trip (25 miles) in about five hours 
and taking a little less for the return. The 
road is good, the views very fine, and the trip 
altogether is one full of interest. For those 
who can spare the time, Saturday is the day 
to go up, as that night visitors are allowed 
to use the telescope. One can leave San Jose 
in the afternoon that day and return on Sun- 
day morning. There is a small hotel only 
about two miles by foot-path, six miles by 
road, from the Observatory, where the night 
may be passed comfortably. This Observa- 
tory was endowed by James Lick, a Califor- 
nian, whose body is buried under the great 
telescope. 



BIG BASIN 

From San Jose may also be reached the 
California State Redwood Park, known as 
Big Basin — a reservation of 7,000 acres and 
as beautiful a bit of woodland as one could 
ask to see, covered by trees larger than those 
of the Muir Woods. The name of the station 



68 CALIFOENIA AND THE WEST 

is Big Trees. These excursions, Santa Cruz, 
Big Trees, etc., may be made very comfort- 
ably from San Francisco, going down by the 
Southern Pacific Coast Line and passing 
through the Santa Clara Valley. 



SANTA CRUZ 

Santa Cruz is most delightfully situated at 
the north end of the Bay of Monterey. This 
is a great resort at all seasons of the year, and 
can boast of all the charms of any of these 
splendid Pacific Coast resorts. Here boating, 
fishing, etc., may be enjoyed. By automobile, 
carriage, trolley or on horseback, many inter- 
esting trips may be made. 

MONTEREY 

Monterey is situated at the most southern 
point of this beautiful bay, but en route as 
one passes through Del Monte a stop must be 
made. The Hotel Del Monte is one of the 
most famous on the Pacific Coast; of Swiss 
architecture and palatial splendor, it is large 
enough to accommodate many hundreds of 
guests; the grounds alone are worthy of a 
visit, forming as they do a beautiful park. 



MONTEREY 69 

Whether one stays in this magnificent hotel 
or goes on to the more simple ones at either 
Monterey or Pacific Grove, the famous 17- 
mile drive must be taken. Automobiles start 
from any of these points. 

Monterey is one of the most interesting 
spots in California historically, and is full 
of old landmarks. It was the capital of Cali- 
fornia until 1849. There are many historic 
buildings ; among them, and perhaps the most 
interesting, is the old Spanish Custom House. 
The first Opera House of California is also 
pointed out, and we are told that Jenny Lind 
sang there. Lovers of R. L. Stevenson will 
be interested to see the very modest house 
which he inhabited during the period of his 
sojourn in Monterey, and from which he gave 
us some charming glimpses of those parts. 

At Pacific Grove there are lovely beaches, 
and here, as at Santa Catalina Island, the 
glass-bottomed boats are hugely enjoyed, and 
as we gaze down through the clear salt water 
those lovely lines of Percival 's come to us : 

" Deep in the wave is a coral grove, 

Where the purple mullet and goldfish rove. 

Where the sea-flower spreads its leaves of blue. 
That never are wet with falling dew, 

But in bright and changeful beauty shine 
Far down in the green and glassy brine." 



70 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



THE SEVENTEEN-MILE DRIVE 

Leaving Monterey on this IT-mile drive 
with the Bay on our right, we pass around 
the curve (the shape of this bay has been 
well described as that of a great fishhook) 
through Pacific Grove to the point or barb of 
the hook, Point Pinos, upon which stands a 
fine lighthouse. Here a sharp turn is made, 
and we have a superb view out over the Pa- 
cific Ocean. A short stop is usually made at 
Seal Bocks, where we enjoy the frolics of 
these queer, playful creatures, of which at 
times scores may be seen. A little further on 
we come to Cypress Point, where grow the 
curiously crooked, gnarled old Monterey 
cypresses indigenous to this spot; with their 
flat umbrella-like tops, they somewhat re- 
semble the cedar of Lebanon, but lack the 
height of the latter. Passing Pescadero Point, 
we come to Pehhle Beach, on the lovely Car- 
mel Bay. Here is a fine Lodge with a Grill- 
room, where refreshments are delightfully 
served. It is well to arrange to take luncheon 
or 5 o'clock tea here before going any fur- 
ther. Carmel-hy-the-Sea is as lovely a spot as 
the name signifies. It is a settlement of artists 



THE SEVENTEEN-MILE DRIVE 71 

and literary people, with a picturesque little 
Inn (Pine Inn) and an unusually beautiful 
stretch of sparkling, snow-white beach. The 
Old Mission here is of exceptional interest, 
being the burial place of Padre Junipero 
Serra, the first of the Franciscan Monks who 
entered California, and established the first of 
their missions for the Indians in 1769. (See 
note on Missions, page 176.) The Scenic 
Boulevard, a newer drive than the famous old 
17-mile drive, must not be overlooked. This 
road is built further inland and on higher 
ground, passing through many miles of beau- 
tiful woodland, where deer abound. I have 
seen as many as ten in one day. 

The views on this drive are wonderfully 
fine, and there are about 40 miles of the best 
roadway. Here again is a paradise for motor- 
ists. 



FOUR CENTRAL ROUTES 

NEW YORK TO CHICAGO 

New York Central Lines via Buflfalo and Niagara 
Falls. 

Pennsylvania R. R. via Pittsburgh. 

Baltimore & Ohio R. R. via Philadelphia and 
Washington. 

Lehigh Valley R. R. via Niagara Falls. 

The New York Central Lines operate the Twentieth 
Century Limited to Chicago, twenty-hour trip, 
extra fare $8.00. The Pennsylvania R. R. operates 
the Pennsylvania Limited, twenty hours to Chi- 
cago, extra fare $8.00. 

From Chicago to San Francisco the following are 
the principal and most direct routes: 

Via Omaha and the Union Pacific System to Ogden, 
thence Southern Pacific Co. to San Francisco. 

Via Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe R. R., with op- 
portunity to visit the Grand Canon. 

Via Denver, Colorado Springs, and the American 
Rockies. 

Via Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul R. R. to St. Paul, 
thence Canadian Pacific to Portland, Southern 
Pacific to San Francisco. 



This arrangement was given to me at 
Thomas Cook and Sons, 245 Broadway, New 
York City, as the most usual arrangement, 
but of course tickets are drawn up to suit 
each individual. 

72 



DENVER 73 

THE CENTRAL ROUTES 

The Central Routes, as I have called all 
except the Canadian Pacific and the Sunset 
Route, have one great advantage in that they 
are shorter. The run to Chicago may be made 
by our Twentieth Century Flyer in 20 hours 
from New York. From Chicago to Omaha 
runs another fine express, the Chicago and 
Northwestern, which makes this trip in 24y2 
hours ; or to Kansas City, the Santa Fe ' ' Cali- 
fornia Limited," in 12 hours. From these 
points west there are endless ways to go, and 
as I said before, each has its advantages. 
Your ticket may be so arranged as to take 
you over several different lines, all depending 
upon the points which you decide to visit. 



DENVER 

Going by one of the Central Routes, you 
can visit Denver, the capital of Colorado, 
situated on the South Platte River and only 
a few miles east of the Rocky Mountains. 
It is a fine, prosperous city. Denver boasts 
300 days of sunshine yearly. From here the 
trip to Estes Park may be made. 



74 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

ESTES PARK 

This beautiful Park lies 7,500 feet above sea 
level, and can be reached in five hours from 
Denver by the Union Pacific Railway and 
automobile. 

In the Park are splendid hotels, where the 
traveller is made welcome, and from which 
fine tours are made through such scenery as 
only our great West can boast, mountains, 
valleys, lakes and rivers; the views include 
many peaks of the Rocky Mountains — ^Long's, 
14,270 feet; Ypsilon, 13,500 feet; Hague, 
13,832 feet. Mountain climbing to the heart 's 
content, hunting, fishing and all the quieter 
sports may also be enjoyed here. The roads 
make the motorist want more hours in the 
day. 

The walks take us in two hours from flower- 
strewn meadows to glaciers. 

There are countless trips to be made all 
around the city of Denver. If one only has 
a few hours here, the view from the top of the 
Equitable- Building is perhaps the most satis- 
factory. 

In a wonderful unbroken line to the west 
extend some 170 miles of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, with such great individual peaks as 



COLORADO SPRINGS 75 

Long's Peak, Pike's Peak, Torrey's Peak, 
14,336 feet, as well as many others. All these 
great mountains may be ascended nowadays, 
some of the parties starting from Estes Park 
and others from elsewhere. (See '' Moun- 
taineering in Colorado," by F. H. Chapin, 
for information on this subject.) 

The Denver and Rio Grande Railway makes 
a most charming tour called " Around the 
Circle," a four-day trip, stopping overnight 
at Durango, Silverton and Ouray. On this 
round we pass through four beautiful canons, 
over three or four mountain passes, winding 
back and forth over 1,000 miles of the Rocky 
Mountains. The ticket is good for 60 days, 
so that the stops may be lengthened to suit 
any one. 



COLORADO SPRINGS AND PIKE'S 
PEAK 

Colorado Springs, to the south of Denver, 
with its sparkling life-giving air, is situated 
upon an elevated plateau, from whence may 
be had a superb view of Pike's Peak, 14,100 
feet. This peak is probably the best known 
summit of the Rocky Mountains. It lies 
about six miles west of Colorado Springs. It 



76 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

is ascended by a cog-wheel railway, the Mani- 
tou and Pike's Peak Railway, in about one 
and one-half hours, or by bridle path in six 
hours. On the summit there is a small Inn, 
where luncheon can be had. Here there is 
also the usual very acceptable telescope. The 
view is unusually fine, even for this wonder- 
fully scenic region. 

The ascent is only made during the summer 
months, there being too much snow in winter. 



CHEYENNE MOUNTAIN 

The Cheyenne Mountain Road may well 
be considered one of Colorado Springs' most 
beautiful trips. Passing around the base of 
Cheyenne Mountain, one lovely view after 
another is seen. The road rises pretty stead- 
ily and grows decidedly narrow, so narrow 
that only those with steady heads can really 
enjoy it. This drive takes us all the way to 
Seven Lakes, a distance of 22 miles, and by 
continuing five miles farther we come to 
Cripple Creek. (See page 81.) 

From Colorado Springs the trip to the 
Cheyenne Canons may be made. See es- 
pecially the South Canon, which can be 
reached by electric car. There is a small ad- 



THE HIGH DRIVE 77 

mission fee (50 cents), but there are count- 
less beautiful walks here. An easy climb 
takes one up to the rim. If the tourist has 
driven to the Canon, the driver may be told 
to go around to the rim, where he can await 
his party. 



THE HIGH DRIVE 

Another fine drive from Colorado Springs 
leads to Bear Creek. This is called the High 
Drive. It requires about three and one-half 
hours for the round trip, and very fully does 
it repay us, for the views are superb. 

Another electric car trip, which is well 
worth while, takes us to Manitou, an interest- 
ing spot quite famous for its scenery and 
soda and iron springs. 

The Cliff Dwellings here are picturesque, 
but uninteresting, as Baedeker tells us that 
they are only imitations, having been cut into 
the cliffs probably to attract the tourist. 

From Manitou there are many charming 
walks. One is tempted especially to follow 
the trails leading to Rainhoiv Canon and the 
Cave of the Winds. 



THE MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 

This most interesting spot is in the ex- 
treme southwest corner of Colorado, and can 
be visited on the '' Circle Trip." (See page 
75.) 

The Reservation was set aside by order of 
Congress in June, 1906. The Park is 65 
square miles, or 14,920 acres, in extent. Its 
highest point, Park Point, is 8,574 feet above 
sea level, and Point Lookout is 8,428 feet 
above sea level and 2,000 feet above the 
Montezuma Valley. It is reached by a 25-mile 
ride, or drive, from Mancos over a good trail, 
or Government road, which is being extended 
so that the entire trip may be made by car- 
riage. It has been necessary heretofore to 
make the latter part on horseback. 

The Park was established to protect the 
wonderful Cliif Dwellings of the Mancos 
Canons, which are said to be among the most 
important remains of this mysterious race. 
There is one dwelling here in excellent 
preservation, others in varying stages of 
demolition. The age of these ruins is sup- 
posed to be from 500 to 1,000 years. To those 
78 



MESA VEBDE NATIONAL PARK 79 

especially interested in this region and desir- 
ous of further information, I recommend Mr. 
T. H. Chapin's '' The Land of the Cliff 
Dwellers." 

'' The principal and most accessible ruins 
are the Spruce Tree House, Cliff Palace, Bal- 
cony House and Tunnel House. Spruce Tree 
House is located in the head of Spruce Tree 
Canon, a branch of Navajo Caiion. It orig- 
inally contained about 130 rooms, built of 
dressed stone laid in adobe mortar, with the 
outside tiers chinked with chips of rocks and 
broken pottery. Cliff Palace is located about 
two miles east of Spruce Tree House, in a 
left branch of Cliff Caiion, and consists of a 
group of houses with ruins of 146 rooms, in- 
cluding 20 round kivas, or ceremonial rooms, 
and a tapering loopholed tower, forming a 
crescent of about 100 yards from horn to horn, 
which is reputed to be one of the most famous 
works of prehistoric man in existence. Bal- 
cony House, a mile east of Cliff Palace, in 
Ruin Caiion, contains about 25 rooms, some 
of which are in almost perfect condition. 
Tunnel House, about two miles south of 
Spruce Tree House, contains about 20 rooms 
and two kivas connected by an elaborate 
system of underground passages, and a burial 
ground of 5,000 square feet. In each of these 



80 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

villages is an elaborate system of fortification, 
with, in some eases, walls two to three feet 
thick and 20 feet high, watchtowers 30 feet 
high and blockhouses pierced with small loop- 
holes for arrows. . . . 

'* Parties visiting the ruins must make the 
trip from the foot of the Mesa to the ruins on 
horseback. The horseback trip over the trail 
is about 12 miles. Carriages or wagons, how- 
ever, may be used from either Mancos, Cortez 
or Dolores as far as the foot of the Mesa. 
Suitable accommodations for travellers are 
provided at Spruce Tree Camp, the conces- 
sioners charging 75 cents for a meal and 50 
cents for a cot in a tent. ' ' * 

I should advise any traveller planning to 
visit one or more of the points of interest in 
the Southwest (I refer especially to the va- 
rious Indian Reservations) to go well armed 
with literature. The U. S. Government cir- 
culars, from which the above is quoted, may 
be had from the Department of the Interior, 
and the Santa Fe Railroad provides really 
wonderful literature. (See also the list in the 
back of this book.) 

* General Statement, 1913, Department of the In- 
terior. 



CANON OF THE ARKANSAS 81 



THE GARDEN OF THE GODS 

The Garden of the Gods, 500 acres of land, 
interesting chiefly for its curious rock for- 
mation and wonderful colors, is reached from 
Colorado Springs, also the Cripple Creek Gold 
District, where a trip of unusual interest may 
be made. 

Puehlo is a fine manufacturing town, *' the 
Pittsburgh of the West. " It is the outlet of 
a rich mining district. There is very little of 
interest here for the tourist. Perhaps one of 
the most interesting features is the curious 
ovens built like tiny mounds four or five feet 
high to be seen in the grounds of the Indians ' 
houses and which are still used to bake their 
bread. There are also delightful parks. 



THE CANON OF THE ARKANSAS 

At Canon City, situated at the mouth of 
the Canon of the Arkansas, if you happen to 
have taken the Denver and Rio Grande 
Scenic Railroad for this section of the trip, 
you leave the Pullman car and take your seat 
in a flat, uncovered observation car (during 
the summer months} and so pass through this 



82 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

superb gorge. The next 10 miles take one 
through a bit of scenery worth going any- 
where to see. There is a fine piece of engi- 
neering here. The train seems in spots to 
cling to the side of the gorge, and it is here 
that we cross the famous Hanging Bridge, the 
waters of the Arkansas dashing madly past. 
Strangers who have never been in this part of 
the world before may possibly be misled into 
thinking they are seeing the Grand Canon 
while passing through this wonderful spot; 
but this Caiion of the Arkansas must not be 
confounded with the Canon of the Colorado 
River, which is known all over the world as 
the Grand Canon. It is a sad pity that the 
word grand has been used in connection with 
these lesser canons. It is a misnomer, and I 
know that many people have been misled 
by it. 



SALT LAKE CITY 

Reaching Salt Lake City, it is necessary to 
give at least a day to this interesting place, 
with its Temple, Tabernacle and fine Assem- 
bly Hall. The trip from here to Ogden and 
across the great Salt Lake is an interesting 
experience. The water is said to contain 25 
per cent of salt; the crystals, which form on 
any piece of floating spar, glisten in the sun- 
light like so many jewels. If you stop long 
enough, arrange for a dip in this buoyant 
water. It is very exhilarating. The colors to 
be seen here at sunset are wonderful. 



THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 
PARK 

The Yellowstone National Park is situated 
in the extreme northwest corner of Wyoming, 
extending a few miles into Montana on the 
north and into Idaho and Montana on the 
west. The Reservation, set apart by act of 
Congress in 1872, is 5,500 square miles. 

From Salt Lake City or Ogden this Park 
83 



84 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

is reached by the Denver and Eio Grande 
Railway or the Union Pacific in about 12 
hours, but this trip, like so many of the others, 
will be arranged for you by whatever route 
you take. The Park may be approached from 
almost any direction, and whether it be from 
one of the many ticket offices that you buy 
your ticket west, or from one of the always- 
obliging Cook's officers, it can be so drawn up 
as to include any of these wonderful sights 
which you may wish. 

The Northern Pacific Railway offers a 
splendidly arranged tour to and through the 
Park by way of Livingston, the Gate of the 
Mountains, and the Upper Yellowstone River 
to Gardiner, the original entrance to the 
Park, and only five miles from Mammoth Hot 
Springs, the official headquarters of the Park. 
This railroad has published for the benefit of 
tourists a most complete circular, giving a six- 
day tour, with trips, hours, prices, etc. The 
Denver and Rio Grande and Union Pacific 
offer equally attractive tours. 

The Yellowstone Park season is from June 
15th to September 15th. Allow $10.00 to 
$12.00 per day for your time in the Park. 
That will cover drives, hotel expenses, etc. 
If possible give to this place of so many un- 
usual interests five or six days at least. It 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 85 

is not necessary to suggest what shall be seen 
here, for the trips are all arranged for you, 
and no one who goes to the Park should leave 
without making the complete tour. The Gey- 
sers, the Lake, the Canon and the Mam- 
moth Hot Springs! — places once seen, impos- 
sible to forget. 

The tours of the Park are made by stage, all 
well organized and well conducted. The 
roads are fine Government roads, charmingly 
laid out and splendidly built. They are well 
sprinkled to keep down the dust. There is 
really no choice as to the entrance of this 
great Park, for whether one approaches it 
from the north, south, east or west, the tour 
of the Park is the same. There are splendid 
hotels at all of the important points, so that 
one may stay and see at leisure all these great 
phenomena. 

Words cannot tell the impressiveness of 
the Geysers. One may sit comfortably on the 
veranda of Old Faithful Inn and watch one 
eruption after another, repeated endlessly. 
But with every change of light, early morn- 
ing, noontide, at sunset or by moonlight, they 
are seen with new interest, and on the moon- 
less nights the visitors are called to see some 
of these great spouts with the rays of a pow- 
erful searchlight upon them. 



86 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Old Faithful, which is described as the 
most perfect illustration of geyseric phe- 
nomena and whose curious fascination and 
real beauty cannot be described, plays every 
70 minutes to a height of 125 to 150 feet, the 
eruptions lasting about five minutes. 

The Giant Geyser, generally conceded to be 
the finest in the Park, throws its great volume 
of water to a height of 250 feet, playing ir- 
regularly about three times a month and last- 
ing about 90 minutes. 

The Castle Geyser, so named for its beauti- 
fully formed crater, only plays once every 26 
or 27 hours, but lasts from 25 minutes to 
three-quarters of an hour. This is truly an 
awe-inspiring sight. 

The Riverside Geyser is among the favor- 
ites. Standing on the right bank of the Fire- 
hole River, it throws its spray into the air in 
a beautiful, graceful arch across the water of 
the river, playing every seven hours and last- 
ing about seven minutes, and almost in- 
variably displaying wonderful rainbow colors. 

There is a plateau a quarter of a mile in 
extent, covered with hot pools, each of the 
most marvellously brilliant colors — reds, 
greens, yellows, etc., — perhaps the most beau- 
tiful of all being the one known as the 
Morning Glory Pool, so named from its 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 87 

curious shape, resembling this well-known 
flower. 

In the Yellowstone Canon we have another 
riot of color, said by many to rival the colors 
of the Grand Canon. The walls in this 
canon are divided by a space of many miles 
at the top, which narrows down to three- 
quarters of a mile at the base, where the foam- 
ing waters dash between them, and here all 
the fragments of the lost rainbows seem to 
have been collected. 

There are many fine mountain peaks, the 
finest being Mount Washburn, with an eleva- 
tion of 10,346 feet, named for General H. D. 
Washburn, the head of the Washburn-Doane 
exploration party, who first climbed it in 
1870. From here one gets the best view of the 
Park as a whole. 

This Park is a famous animal preserve. 
Elk, deer, buffalo and bear thrive here. The 
bears cause great entertainment, coming down 
to the hotels to feed upon whatever may be 
offered them by the visitors; having been 
protected so long, they have no fear. These 
bears were utilized by Mr. Seton-Thompson 
in his animal stories, and many who are not 
familiar with them in any other way will 
recall those tales. 

Of all our National Parks this is far the 



88 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

largest. It is also the highest and coolest. 
We are told that frosts occur there every 
month of the year. Mr. Muir says of it : 

* ' The air is electric and full of ozone ; heal- 
ing, reviving, exhilarating, kept pure by frost 
and fire, while the scenery is wild enough to 
awaken the dead. 

* ' It is a glorious place to grow in and rest 
in. Camping on the shores of the lakes in 
the warm openings of the woods, golden with 
sunflowers, on the banks of the streams, by 
the snowy waterfalls, beside the exciting won- 
ders or away from them in the scallops of the 
mountain walls sheltered from every wind, on 
smooth, silky lawns enameled with gentians, 
up in the fountain hollows of the ancient gla- 
ciers between the peaks, where cool pools and 
brooks and gardens of precious plants charm- 
ingly embowered are never wanting. . . . 

'' Again and again amid the calmest, still- 
est scenery you will be brought to a standstill 
hushed and awe-stricken before phenomena 
wholly new to you. Boiling springs and huge 
deep pools of purest green and azure water, 
thousands of them, are splashing and heaving 
in these high, cool mountains as if a fierce 
furnace fire were burning beneath each one 
of them; and a hundred geysers, white tor- 
rents of boiling water and steam, like inverted 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 89 

waterfalls, are ever and anon rushing up out 
of the hot, black underworld. 

*' Some of these ponderous geyser columns 
are as large as sequoias — 5 to 60 feet in 
diameter, 150 to 300 feet high — and are sus- 
tained at this great height with tremendous 
energy for a few minutes, or perhaps nearly 
an hour, standing rigid and erect, hissing, 
throbbing, booming, as if thunderstorms were 
raging beneath their roots. ... No frost 
cools them, snow never covers them . . . 
winter and summer they welcome alike . . . 
faithfully rising and sinking in fairy 
rhythmic dance night and day, in all sorts 
of weather, at varying periods of minutes, 
hours or weeks. . . . The largest and one 
of the most wonderfully beautiful of the 
springs is the Prismatic, which the guide 
will be sure to show you. With a circum- 
ference of 300 yards, it is more like a lake 
than a spring. 

'* The water is pure deep blue in the cen- 
ter, fading to green on the edges, and its 
basin and the slightly terraced pavement 
about it are astonishingly bright and varied 
in color. This one of the multitude of Yel- 
lowstone fountains is of itself object enough 
for a trip across the continent. . . . Near 
the Prismatic Spring is the great Excelsior 



90 CALIFOB.NIA AND THE WEST 

Geyser, which is said to throw a column of 
boiling water 60 to 70 feet in diameter to a 
height of from 50 to 300 feet at irregular 
periods. This is the greatest of all the gey- 
sers 3^et discovered anywhere. The Fire- 
hole River, which sweeps past it, is, at ordi- 
nary stages, a stream about 100 yards wide 
and three feet deep; but when the Geyser is 
in eruption, so great is the quantity of water 
discharged that the volume of the river is 
doubled, and it is rendered too hot and rapid 
to be forded. ..." 

But I could quote this great nature lover 
indefinitel}^ He is absolutely fascinating on 
any of these subjects. See for yourself ' ' Our 
National Parks," by John Muir, and if you 
are going West, as he would have you go, 
quietly, with time to draw near to nature, to 
read and to think, take a copy of his book 
with you. 

Mr. Muir uses his pen as a great artist uses 
his brush, his descriptions are the most ex- 
quisite of pictures. 



THE SALT LAKE ROUTE 

*' To the traveller in the swiftly-flying 
trains of the San Pedro, Los Angeles and 
Salt Lake Railroad (Salt Lake Route) a few 
words of history may be of interest. 

*' For nearly the entire distance this short 
line between Salt Lake City and Los Angeles 
follows the trail of the Mormons pioneers, 
who in 1851 journeyed from Utah to San Ber- 
nardino, California, to found in the Valley of 
the Arrowhead a new colony of the Mormon 
people. 

*' Behind the ox-team on the old trail came 
the lumbering prairie schooner, guarded be- 
fore, behind and on both sides by riflemen; 
bearing beneath its curtains the precious 
freight of wives and children, who followed, 
for four weary months, the hardy pioneers 
of the West into the Land of Promise. To- 
day over almost the same trail roll the well- 
lighted, comfortably-cushioned ears of the 
Salt Lake Route, hotels on wheels, bearing 
the wanderer in comfort such as he knows 
only at home through a land the like of which 
exists nowhere else on earth. 
91 



92 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

* * Leaving Salt Lake City, trains of the Salt 
Lake Route pass along the shore of the great 
Salt Lake, a vast inland sea whose presence 
has never been explained and whose wonders 
have never half been told. 

** Eounding the shoulder of the Oquirrh 
Range, the line passes into the mining dis- 
tricts from which much of Utah's mineral 
wealth is obtained and which has contributed 
materially to the upbuilding of Salt Lake 
City. 

*' Thence to the Nevada border, the for- 
mer desert conditions are fast giving way 
to agricultural development by irrigation and 
dry farming, the rich soil showing surprising 
results within a short time after operations 
have been commenced. 

" Immediately after crossing the line be- 
tween Utah and Nevada the character of the 
country changes, and for many miles the way 
is through a series of caiions, many gor- 
geously colored and of rugged, fantastic 
scenic beauty. 

*' About midway in this mountain region is 
the Valley of Caliente, so called from the hot 
springs there existing. The town is a divi- 
sion point of the Salt Lake Route. 

** Immediately after leaving Caliente 
myriad-hued buttes rise on every side; along 



THE SALT LAKE ROUTE 93 

the track flows a river; on every hand 
great gashes sear their v^ay back into the 
heart of a wilderness of hills more beau- 
tiful than the famed ' Bad Lands ' of Wyo- 
ming. 

' * Somber grays and browns of lower slopes 
give way to blues and greens and reds and 
yellows on the upper shelves of the buttes, 
until all finally merge in the most gorgeous 
of all the panoramas on the way westward — 
Eainbow Canon. Down this gorge, carved by 
the mad water centuries ago, its wall a 
jumbled mass of ores and igneous rock, all 
garbed in such shades as no painter ever dared 
mix on his palette, the Salt Lake Route train 
plunges, 100 miles from its last stop at 
Caliente. 

" Just before leaving the canons, at Rox 
Station, is the famous pictured rock, carved 
with mysterious symbols of a vanished race 
and supposed to be a record of the passing 
through this canon of the Spanish conquista- 
dores in 1540. 

'* Out of this canon the train rolls down 
into the rich Las Vegas Valley, its settlement 
founded more than a hundred years ago 
by the Spanish padres and later given 
over to Mormon settlers, who have in turn 
been followed by other settlers attracted 



94 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

by the fertile soil and abundant artesian 
water supply. 

*' Las Vegas is a Spanish word, meaning 
* The Meadows/ and from here the Las 
Vegas and Tonopah Railroad leads off to 
the great mining districts of Goldfield and 
contiguous territory. 

'* From Las Vegas to the San Bernardino 
Mountains, in California, the real desert is 
traversed. "While not notable for scenic at- 
tractions, at certain times of the year the 
desert is beautiful with a great variety of 
flowers, and portions of it, such as the 
Devil's Playground, with swirling sands, and 
the Mojave (pronounced Mo-havi) River 
Canon, with its fantastic rock formation, are 
interesting features of the traveller's 
journey. 

** Crossing the mountains through Cajon 
Pass, the real California, with its orange 
groves, palms and flowers, is first seen near 
San Bernardino. On the left is Arrowhead 
Mountain. 

" Heavy with Indian and white men's 
legends is this Arrowhead. From it the fa- 
mous Arrowhead Hot Springs, nearby, were 
named) and from it the Salt Lake Route took 
its equally famous trademark. Clear and 
distinct, regular in outline, as if carved with 



LAKE TAHOE 95 

some Titan's chisel, this strange landmark 
has been a puzzle to geologists. How it came 
there, or when, no man knows. 

* ' From San Bernardino to Los Angeles is a 
continuous panorama of thriving cities, set 
in the midst of thousands of acres of orange 
and lemon groves, wine grape vineyards, 
walnut and peach orchards and truck farms, 
the towering Sierra Madres guarding the 
northern side of the valleys. ' ' * 

Taking up the thread westward again 
from Salt Lake City, crossing the great Salt 
Lake Desert and Nevada to Derby, we begin 
the long climb of the ridge of the Sierra 
Nevada following the Truckee River, which 
is crossed many times. This climb is a most; 
interesting experience, though the miles of 
snowsheds through which the train passes 
become a little tiresome. 

* Mr. T. C. Peek, S. P., L. A. & S. L. R. R. 



LAKE TAHOE 

Taking the Southern Pacific, we go so near 
the beautiful Lake Tahoe that those who can 
will do well to stop at Truckee, and, taking 
the train of the Lake Tahoe Railway and 
Transportation Company, follow this lovely 



96 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

mountain stream down to the Lake (15 
miles). You will be made most comfortable 
at the Tahoe Tavern; in fact, here, as in all 
the fine Western hotels, one may enjoy every 
luxury. 

This clear, sparkling gem of a lake lies 
6,225 feet above sea level: it is 23 miles 
long and 13 miles wide. Its beauty cannot 
be exaggerated. It is as lovely as Italy's 
Lake Como, and while the mountains rise 
round Como to a height of 7,000 feet, these 
great peaks of the Sierra Nevadas have an 
elevation of 11,120 feet. Then, too, these 
comparatively little known marvels of North 
America's great West are ours, while those 
scenic spots which we all so enjoy in Europe 
can be only, so to speak, borrowed pleasures. 

Eeturning to the main line, we enjoy from 
the train several fine views of Donner Lake, 
and continue to ascend to Summit Station, 
on the Sierra Nevada Ridge, where we go 
through a long tunnel and descend on the 
California side of this snowy range, " to find 
ourselves, almost before we know it, among 
the brilliant blooms of the Pacific slope." 



THE NORTHERN PACIFIC 

Going West by the Northern Pacific, con- 
nections with which may be made from Chi- 
cago, we pass through North Dakota and 
Montana. On this route the trip to the Yel- 
lowstone National Park (see page 83) is 
very comfortably made. 

Crossing a spur of the Rocky Mountains 
just west of Livingston, where Lewis and 
Clark crossed in 1806, we pass through Gal- 
latin Valley, a famous barley-raising region. 
Here are over 100 miles of irrigating canals. 

At Bozeman the Montana State Agricul- 
tural College is located. 



LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERN 

Near the great mining city of Butte is the 
Lewis and Clark Cavern (one of the National 
Monuments), presented to the United States 
Government by the Northern Pacific Railway. 
Here the huge and really beautiful caves at- 
tract many visitors. 

Near Butte are also the Pipe-stone Hot 
Springs and Boulder Hot Springs. 
97 



THE BITTER ROOT VALLEY, 
MONTANA 

The Bitter Root Valley, at the foot of which 
Missoula lies, is one of the rich and beautiful 
Western valleys and is interesting historically. 
Lewis and Clark traversed the valley in 
1805-06 and some of their greatest hardships 
were encountered in crossing Bitter Root 
Mountains. 

The point where their trail turned into 
the range is about 12 miles above Missoula. 

At Stevensville, about 28 miles up this 
valley, Father De Smet established his first 
Mission to the Salish, or Flathead, Indians in 
1841. The old church, St. Mary's, still stands 
and is used at intervals. The Indians were 
removed from here many years ago. 

The Valley has a great reputation for its 
fruits and vegetables. 

At Ravalli, on the Flathead Indian Reser- 
vation, the Government has established a 
Bison Preserve of about 18,000 acres, with a 
herd of from 75 to 100 of these fine creatures. 
This Reservation is reached by the Northern 
Pacific Railroad from Arlee, Montana, a drive 
of four and one-half miles. 



PEND D 'OREILLE 

From the Reservation to Pend d 'Oreille we 
follow the Clark Fork of the Columbia River. 
Lake Pend d 'Oreille, Idaho, is one of the 
crystal gems of the West, another of the 
many very beautiful bodies of water in the 
Rocky Mountains. It is 55 miles long and 
from 2 to 15 miles wide. The sparkling 
waters of this lake fill what was a deep moun- 
tain canon. Soundings have been made to 
the depth of 4,000 feet without finding bot- 
tom. Exquisitely wooded mountains rise 
from the water's edge, forming a wonderful 
setting. 

Lake Coeur d'Alene, the source of the 
Spokane River, is another lovely spot in 
Idaho. Here may be seen many fine summer 
homes. 

Through wild and rugged scenery we 
reach Spokane, and beyond cross the beauti- 
ful Columbia River and enter the great 
Yakima Valley, another perfection of irriga- 
tion. 



99 



SPOKANE 

Spokane, which used to be a trading post, 
is now a fine, big city. 

Fort Wright, one of the modern military- 
posts of the United States Government, is on 
the outskirts of the city on the bank of the 
Spokane Kiver. 

Finally, crossing the Cascade Range and 
passing down through the Green Eiver 
Canon, we reach Seattle or Tacoma, at the 
extreme south of Puget Sound. From here 
down to San Francisco we may continue by 
rail, taking the splendid " Shasta Limited '^ 
(see page 41), or by steamer down the coast, 
a charming trip either way. 

Again, this trip may be varied by leaving 
the main line at Pasco, Washington, and 
taking the famous *' North Bank " Road of 
the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railway, 
along the Columbia River to Portland. The 
mountains, cataracts, the cascades and The 
Dalles of the river are here seen at their best. 
(See page 43 for Columbia River trip.) 



100 



THE SANTA FE 

* ' One of the very best trains running west 
is the Santa Fe, which is pretty nearly per- 
fect in its equipment and service. This road 
has probably done more for the West than 
any other. In going from San Francisco 
down to Los Angeles the Santa Fe track 
climbs gradually up the San Joaquin Valley. 
From Bakersfield, the metropolis of the 
central valley, the road ascends more steeply 
and with many a winding curve to the Te- 
hachapi Pass. Sand comes into the landscape, 
and cacti, and after negotiating some sur- 
prising loops and tunnels in our descent to 
the southwest, we get our first view of the 
Mojave Desert. 

'' Occasionally friendly oases mark the 
homes of adventurous settlers, and on either 
hand scarred mountain faces proclaim the 
conquering miner, who, seeking gold, is un- 
dismayed by nature's forbidding front. 
Every railway line in the United States from 
the Pacific Coast to the East, must cross the 
desert section, which stretches all the way 
from British Columbia to Old Mexico. The 
101 



102 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Mojave Desert is the narrowest, and is tra- 
versed with the minimum of discomfort, both 
because of the short mileage and the oil- 
sprinkled roadbed of the Santa Fe. 

*' ' The Angel ' is the name of the train 
you are on — a fast limited train that makes 
the run from San Francisco to Los Angeles 
mainly by night. At Barstow you leave the 
main line for Southern California. 

' ' The most interesting trip for a visitor in 
Southern California, whose time is limited, is 
over what is known as the * Kite-shaped 
Track ' of the Santa Fe. The track is in the 
shape of two loops, the smaller end from San 
Bernardino to Redlands, and the larger, to 
the west, from San Bernardino to Los An- 
geles. The city of Saint Bernard is old, as 
reckoned in California, having been settled 
by Mormons from Salt Lake in the fifties. 

'' The smaller loop of the railroad runs 
around the upper end of the Santa Ana Val- 
ley. Here, in the foothills, overlooking a 
panorama of mountain and valley, lies Red- 
lands, an orchard city scarce 25 years of age, 
and boasting the finest of oranges. Here is 
Smiley Heights Drive, noted for its winding 
roads and splendid views, and many charming 
winter homes of wealthy people. Returning 
around the loop, close to the foothills, the 



TEE SANTA FE 103 

train passes Highland. San Bernardino is 
again reached, and the train runs southward 
on its spin around the lower branch of the 
loop. 

' ' Arizona is a land of prodigious mountain 
terraces, extensive plateaus, profound caiions 
and flat, arid plains, dotted with gardens of 
fruits and flowers, patched with. vast tracts of 
pine timber and veined with precious stones 
and metals, alternating with desolate beds 
of lava, bald mountainous cones of black and 
red volcanic cinder, grass-carpeted parks, un- 
couth vegetable growths of the desert, and 
bleak rock spires, above all which white peaks 
gleam radiantly in almost perpetual sun- 
light. 

*' We rise by easy grades until we are a 
mile above the sea, the time changing one 
hour at Seligman. At Ash Fork the main line 
of the Santa Fe may be left for a detour into 
the garden of Arizona, to Prescott and 
Phoenix, and the Salt River Valley. In a 
distance of about 300 miles the traveller is 
afforded a glimpse of every variety of scenery 
typical of the State. There are black, barren 
mountains, and mountains covered with for- 
ests of pine and cedar, on whose slopes are 
seen the dumps of world-famous mines. 



WOLPI AND ORAIBI 

'* By stopping off at Winslow, which is a 
Harvey * Eating-house ' oasis, we may com- 
fortably visit the province of Tusayan, as it 
was called under the Spanish rule, or the 
three mesas upon which are the seven Hopi 
villages, or pueblos. It is about 70 miles 
across the desert to Wolpi or Oraibi (see page 
133), the principal pueblos, and the team and 
driver will cost probably $5.00 a day for a 
party of four, who provide their own blankets 
and provisions. The journey, including as it 
does the famous * Painted Desert ' (see page 
128), is full of interest, and is an event in the 
globe trotter's lifetime. It requires two 
days' time each way, and three days at the 
pueblos, or a week from the railway, to make 
this unique trip to the homes of the Children 
of the Sun. 

" The aboriginal races of America present 
many problems worthy of study, and are per- 
haps the most picturesque, as their fathers 
were the most warlike among all the races of 
men. Protected by the deserts and mountain 
chains upon either side, and being guiltless 
104 



WOLPI AND OBAIBI 105 

of the possession of gold, the Pueblo Indians 
of Arizona and New Mexico managed to re- 
tain the manners and customs and much of 
the independence of their ancestors of cen- 
turies past, while they have been protected 
by the Government from the savage on- 
slaughts of the predatory tribes. They are 
American citizens by right of treaty and pos- 
sess nearly 1,000,000 acres of land. 

' * Whether our journey be made in winter, 
spring, summer or autumn, we are sure to 
intrude upon (for they are not to be con- 
sidered in any sense as ' shows ') one or more 
of the great ceremonials, usually an invoca- 
tion for rain, a propitiation of the gods of the 
winds for bountiful harvests or a general 
thanksgiving for protection, with the brilliant 
public pageant at the close. But smile not at 
the curious sand altars, with the ' tiponi ' or 
palladium of the fraternity, the childlike 
' bahos ' and ' nakiuakwosi,' or prayer-sticks 
and offerings, nor let the ears or eyes be of- 
fended by the chanting of the songs to the 
gods of sun, of winds and of rain, or the cere- 
monial dances of the priests, for they are se- 
rious affairs to the native participants. 

*' A visit to the two pueblos of Laguna 
and Acoma (see page 141) and the famous 
Mesa Encantada, or enchanted mesa, necessi- 



106 CALIFORNIA AND TEE WEST 

tates but a single break in the journey after 
leaving Gallup for Albuquerque. Although 
the town is near the railroad and the Spanish 
priest and the missionary have brought the 
new religion, there are many evidences of a 
vigorous native life with opportunities to 
study it at close range. With the exception 
of the Acoma pottery, that of Laguna is the 
best offered to the tourist along the line of 
the Santa Fe Railway. 



NEW MEXICO 

'* We begin to realize that this is an old 
country rather than a new. Americans are 
prone to talk of the ' Settlement Period,' of 
Bradford and Brewster, of Captain John 
Smith and Henry Hudson. But it is well to 
remember that nearly a century before the 
Half Moon sailed up the Hudson or the May- 
flower dropped her anchor in Massachusetts 
Bay, the mailed warriors of Cabeza de Vaca 
and Coronado had discovered the terraced 
cities of Zuiii, where men were clothed in 
cotton and wool of their own weaving, lived 
in stone houses and cultivated the soil. ' 



ALBUQUERQUE 107 



ALBUQUERQUE 

** At Albuquerque we find ourselves in a 
half-American and half-Mexican city of 
15,000 inhabitants. It is a junction point of 
the Santa Fe and the metropolis of New 
Mexico. Here is a fine Fred Harvey hotel, 
the Alvarado, striking in architecture and 
luxuriously furnished. Many travellers stop 
off here for a day to break the journey and 
* rest up.' A special attraction which the 
Alvarado offers not to be found elsewhere on 
the line, except at El Tovar, is a fine collec- 
tion of Indian relics and products. In Hopi, 
Navajo, Zuni, Apache, Pima and Mexican 
treasures this collection is exceedingly rich, 
and is well worthy the study of the ethnol- 
ogist, more than justifying a halt at the 
attractive inn that houses it so worthily. If 
one is fortunate, too, he may see Navajo and 
Hopi weavers, potters, silversmiths and bas- 
ketmakers engaged in their various crafts. 



SANTA FE 

' * Santa Fe, or to give the sonorous name in 
full, ' La Ciudad Eeal de la Santa Fe de San 
Francisco de Asis/ which shows a common 
origin with San Francisco of the coast, lies 
at the base of a mountain range nearly 2,000 
feet higher than Albuquerque, a few miles off 
the main line of travel, on a branch line. 
Lamy is the main line junction point, where 
one changes cars to reach Santa Fe, and here 
is another Harvey station hotel. El Ortiz. 
When first visited by the Spanish, about 1540 
(a century before Boston was settled), the 
town was a populous Indian pueblo. You 
may read its varied history in the guide 
books and study its priceless records in the 
old territorial * Palace.' The Casa Viejo, 
or old house, where Coronado is said to have 
lodged in 1540, and the Church of San 
Miguel, which was sacked in 1680, are not 
distinguishable from their surroundings by 
any air of superior age. All is old, a bit of 
desiccated Granada of the sixteenth century. 
Little wonder that this is the center of 
archaaological research in America! 
108 



WILLIAMS 109 

** Santa Fe is also noted as having been 
the western terminus of the old Santa Fe 
Trail, which, in the days before the railroad 
came, ran across the plains from Kansas City 
through a country occupied by hostile In- 
dians. The present Santa Fe line closely 
parallels that tract and its continuation west- 
ward to California. 



WILLIAMS 

** Fray Marcos, the station hotel at Wil- 
liams, under Harvey management, is up to 
the Santa Fe standard of excellence. It is 
built with wide porticoes, like an old Spanish 
mission, and has pleasant guest-rooms. The 
restaurant, lobby and large Indian-room 
are tastefully furnished in arts and crafts 
style. 

** While the Grand Canon may be reached 
by private conveyance from Flagstaff, in open 
weather, the main travel is by way of Wil- 
liams. The railway terminus at Bright Angel 
is in the middle of the Granite Gorge Dis- 
trict. From there one may reach by carriage 
the eastern and western ends thereof, at 
Grand View and Bass's. Cataract Canon, 
rock fortress home of the Supai Indians, lies 



mo CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

still farther west, while north of Grand View 
is the Little Colorado Country and the 
' Painted Desert ' (see page 128). 

*' A quarter of a million dollar hotel, El 
Tovar, under management of Fred Harvey, 
occupies a site 7,000 feet above sea level, close 
to the Canon rim, at the railway terminus, 
and not far from the head of Bright Angel 
Trail. El Tovar is a rustic edifice, solidly 
built of native boulders and pine logs. It 
contains more than 100 sleeping-rooms, with 
accommodations for i early 300 guests. All 
the luxuries are provided, such as electric 
light, steam heat, hot and cold water, room 
telephones, baths, private dining rooms, a 
solarium and music. 

'' To accommodate those desiring less ex- 
pensive quarters Bright Angel Camp has 
been opened as an adjunct to El Tovar, 
under Harvey management, on the European 
plan. 

" Adjacent is an unique structure occu- 
pied by Hopi and Navajo Indians, who here 
engage in their curious handicrafts. In this 
building also are installed several costly In- 
dian blanket and basket collections. Nearby 
are several * hogans,' where a number of 
Navajos live. Expert basket weavers and 
pottery makers are found here. 



HERMIT BIM BOAD 111 



HERMIT RIM ROAD 

** The most remarkable driveway in the 
world, Hermit Rim Road, extends from El 
Tovar westward along the canon rim nine 
miles to head of Hermit Basin, by way of 
Hopi, Mojave and Pima points. It is 30 feet 
wide, with central section of crushed rock, 
rolled hard, making a smooth and dustless 
boulevard. 

*' Imagine riding for miles along the top 
of a wall which drops straight down 2,000 
feet, with just below that another drop of 
1,500 feet ! The view takes in the north rim, 
the temples between and the tawny Colorado. 

*' Hermit Trail has been constructed from 
the end of Hermit Rim Road, seven miles 
down Hermit Basin and Creek to the pla- 
teau. This new and safe trail is four feet 
wide, with easy grades. ' ' * 

* Mr. W. H. Simpson, A., T. & S. F. R. R. 



THE UNION PACIFIC 

The Union Pacific Eailroad has two main 
gateways, one at Omaha, the other at Kansas 
City, Missouri, from each of which there are 
operated several through trains daily to the 
Pacific Coast. The " Overland Limited " is a 
well-equipped, first-class, extra-fare, daily 
train from Chicago to San Francisco, which 
makes the trip in 64 hours; the *' Pacific 
Limited," no extra fare, in 72 hours. 

This railroad has done its utmost to pro- 
tect its travellers, having double tracks over 
three-fourths of its main line, the roadbed 
ballasted with dustless Sherman gravel and 
protected by automatic electric block safety 
signals, which things add to the comfort and 
safety of the tourist. 

Denver and Salt Lake City may be visited 
en route without additional cost. 

Practically any of our great Western Parks 
or scenic attractions may be reached by this 
road. 

Now, since we have considered in more or 
less detail the crossing of this great North 
113 



THE UNION PACIFIC 113 

American continent from east to west via the 
extreme northern routes, also via the central 
routes, let us consider the extreme southern 
route, commonly known as the Sunset Koute. 



SUNSET ROUTE 

Leaving any of the great far Eastern cities, 
one may go direct to New Orleans either by 
land or water and from there along the coast 
of the Gulf of Mexico, across Texas and the 
northern border of Mexico, skirting the south- 
west of New Mexico through Benson, Arizona, 
to Tucson (pronounced Toosohn), the largest 
city in the State, where the University of Ari- 
zona is, also an agricultural experimental 
station and an interesting Desert Botanical 
Laboratory in connection with the Carnegie 
Institute. 

From Maricopa, a few miles west of Tuc- 
son, a branch line runs to Phoenix, from 
where the Grand Canon trip is most easily 
made. (See page 120.) Phoenix is a garden 
spot nowadays through irrigation. Near here 
is the great Roosevelt Dam, 286 feet high and 
some 800 feet long, which has been the means 
of turning this desert into one of the finest 
of orchards. 

Continuing westward, we reach Redlands 
Junction and on to Los Angeles. (For places 
of interest between Los Angeles and San 
Francisco, see page 163.) 
114 



SACRAMENTO 

Sacramento, the capital of California, is 
situated on the east bank of the Sacramento 
River. The city is finely laid out, with wide, 
handsome streets. The most important 
building, which attracts the eye before the 
tourist reaches the city, is the State Capitol, 
with a beautiful dome, which instantly re- 
calls that of the National Capitol. The sur- 
rounding country is most interesting. From 
Sacramento down to the mouth of the river 
the banks are like one great garden. Here 
we get our first view of the beautifully-kept 
olive groves, the soft gray-green of the 
foliage reminding us of Italy. 

P'^rom here many charming trips can be 
made, this being one of the railway centers 
for the interior of California. Electric lines 
also run from here in almost every direc- 
tion. 



116 



LODI AND THE CALAVERAS BIG 
TREES 

About 30 miles south of Sacramento lies 
Lodi, one of the largest grape-growing cen- 
ters of the State, and from here, by the 
Valley Spring branch of the Southern Pa- 
cific Railroad, may be reached the Calaveras 
Big Trees and the Mining District made 
familiar to many through Mark Twain's 
*' Jumping Frog of Calaveras " and Bret 
Harte's " Bellringer of Angels." These 
writers both lived in the small town of Angels, 
Calaveras County. 

The Calaveras Grove of Big Trees is the 
farthest north of any of the Big Tree groves, 
and was the first of these forests discovered. 
Here may be seen some of the finest speci- 
mens of this woodland monarch. 

There are about 100 trees ranging from 300 
to 375 feet in height and from 70 to 90 feet 
in circumference. From here one may drive 
to the most important of all the groves in 
point of number, South, or Stanislaus, Grove, 
where the trees are not nearly as large, but 
where there are said to be over 1,000 of them. 
116 



MUBPHY8 117 

In both of these groves, as in the well- 
known Mariposa Groves, one sees traces of 
the great damage done by fire. The trees are 
now carefully guarded, and it is to be hoped 
that fires from carelessness may never hap- 
pen again. The average American citizen 
is being more and more awakened to the value 
of the great nature wonders and their preser- 
vation each year, and yet, as I write these 
words, I am sadly reminded of the fact that 
Congress has this month given permission to 
the citizens of San Francisco to flood our 
beautiful Hetch-Hetchy Valley and use it 
as a reservoir. They tell us it is for the best. 
Man is going to make a wonderful spot of this 
wild valley! 



MURPHYS 

At MurphySf in the Calaveras district, 
there is quite a remarkable cave, discovered 
by the miners in 1850, where there are some 
curious formations and stalactites. 

A wonderful trip by motor from Sacra- 
mento is made via the new State Road, or 
what is there known as the '' Wishbone 
Route." The drive covers 275 miles, going 
from Sacramento to Donner Lake and True- 



118 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

kee, then 15 miles along the very beautiful 
Truckee River to Tahoe Tavern, that enticing 
spot mentioned on page 96. On the return 
trip the drive follows the lake shore for about 
25 miles, coming back to the State Road and 
through Placerville to Sacramento. 

The Yosemite Valley (see page 147) may 
be reached more easily from Sacramento or 
San Francisco than from elsewhere, but let 
me mention here that no matter which way 
you want to approach the Yosemite, or anj'' 
of the Government Parks, the railroad offi- 
cials take the greatest pains to arrange these 
trips. I found them interested to a remark- 
able degree. Whether it was for a two-day 
stop or a week, no amount of trouble seemed 
too much for them to take. They will make 
out schedules for each day, telling one how 
best to dispose of every hour. This is the 
greatest help to the traveller who has little 
time and who as usual wants to make the 
most of it. 



' I've stood in some mighty-mouthed hollow 

That's plum-full of hush to the brim; 
I've watched the big, husky sun wallow 

In crimson and gold, and grow dim, 
Till the moon set the pearly peaks gleaming, 

And the stars tumbled out, neck and crop; 

And I've thought that I surely was dreaming^ 

With the peace o' the world piled on top." 

Sebvice. 



THE GRAND CANON OF THE 
COLORADO 

The Grand Canon of the Colorado! How 
shall I try to write upon this subject in few 
words? — the world's most famous gorge, in 
which, says Charles F. Lummis, " all the 
world's famous gorges could be lost forever." 

Read what Charles Dudley Warner has 
said of this spot: 

'' Human experience has no prototype of 
this region, and the imagination has never 
conceived of its forms and colors. . . . The 
scene is one to strike dumb with awe, or to 
unstring the nerves. . . . All that we could 
comprehend was a vast confusion of amphi- 
theaters and strange architectural forms re- 
splendent with color. . . . Streaks of solid 
hues 1,000 feet in width, yellows mingled with 
white and gray, orange, dull red, brown, blue, 
carmine and green all blending in the sunlight 
into one transcendent effusion of splendor." 

Here is undoubtedly one of the most mar- 
vellous nature wonders of the world, and 
how comparatively few of us know it. It 
is stupendous ! It is incomprehensible ! The 
120 



THE GRAND CANON 121 

Caiion lies chiefly in Arizona, though Utah, 
Nevada and California each claim a corner. 
It is nearly 300 miles long and in places 
6,600 feet deep ; the width at the top is from 
8 to 20 miles. The river lying below is in 
places 300 feet wide, and is 2,400 feet above 
sea level, yet looking down from the rim it 
seems the smallest stream, the merest thread. 

Mr. George Wharton James in his ^' The 
Grand Canon of Arizona" makes practical 
suggestions as to how best to see it. In Chap- 
ter VI he gives a sketch of how best to spend 
two days, another for a three-day stop, and 
still another for a four- or five-day stay. 
But here again the railroads, or Mr. Harvey 
of the splendid El Trovar Hotel, will arrange 
each day for you. The Santa Fe trains run 
twice a day to the rim of the Canon at Bright 
Angel Trail. This big modern hotel, with 
every comfort, occupies a site 7,000 feet above 
sea level and quite near the Canon rim, com- 
manding such a view as can hardly be 
equalled in the world. 

Mr. C. A. Higgins in his '' The Titan of 
Chasms ' ' says : 

'' The early Spanish explorers first re- 
ported it (the Colorado River) to the civilized 
world in 1540, two separate expeditions be- 
coming acquainted with the river for a com- 



122 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

paratively short distance above its mouth, and 
another, journeying from the Moqui Pueblos 
(Hopi) northwestward across the desert, ob- 
taining the first view of the Big Canon, fail- 
ing in every effort to descend the Canon wall 
and spying the river only from afar. 

*' Again in 1776 a Spanish priest, travel- 
ling southward through Utah, struck off from 
the Virgin River to the southeast and found 
a practicable crossing at a point that still 
bears the name ' Vado de los Padres. ' 

" For more than 80 years thereafter the 
Big Canon remained unvisited except by the 
Indian, the Morman herdsman and the trap- 
per, although the Sitgreaves expedition of 
1851, journeying westward, struck the river 
about 150 miles above Yuma, and Lieutenant 
Whipple in 1854 made a survey for a practi- 
cable railroad route along the 35th parallel, 
where the Santa Fe Pacific was afterwards 
constructed. ... In 1869 Major Powell un- 
dertook the exploration of the river with nine 
men and four boats, starting from Green 
River City, on the Green River, in Utah. 

^* The project met with the most urgent 
remonstrance from those who were best ac- 
quainted with the region, including the In- 
dians, who maintained that boats could not 
possibly live in any one of a score of rapids 



TEE GRAND CAi^ON 123 

and falls known to them, to say nothing of the 
vast unknown stretches in which at any 
moment a Niagara might be disclosed. It was 
also currently believed that for hundreds of 
miles the river disappeared wholly beneath 
the surface of the earth. 

" Powell launched his flotilla on May 24th 
and on August 30th landed at the mouth of 
the Virgin River, more than 1,000 miles by 
the river channel from the place of starting, 
minus two boats and four men.* 

" Stolid indeed is he who can front the 
awful scene and view its unearthly splendor 
of color and form without quaking knee or 
tremulous breath. An inferno swathed in 
soft celestial fires; a whole chaotic under- 
world, just emptied of primeval floods and 
waiting for a new creative word ; eluding all 
sense of perspective or dimension, outstretch- 
ing the faculty of measurement, overlapping 
the confines of definite apprehension; a bod- 
ing, terrible thing, unflinchingly real, yet 
spectral as a dream. ... A labyrinth of 
huge architectural forms, endlessly varied in 
design, fretted with ornamental devices, fes- 
tooned with lace-like webs formed of talus 
from the upper cliffs and painted with every 

* There have been other successful expeditions 
since, the Kolb brothers being the last, 19li-1912. 



124 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

color known to the palette in pure transpar- 
ent tones of marvellous delicacy, . . . 

^' A canon, truly, but not after the ac- 
cepted type. An intricate system of caiions, 
rather, . . . Only by descending into the 
Canon may one arrive at anything like com- 
prehension of its proportions, and the descent 
cannot be too urgently commended to every 
visitor who is sufficiently robust to bear a 
reasonable amount of fatigue. There are 
five paths down the southern wall of the 
Canon in the Granite Gorge District ; the trip 
may now be safely made on horseback all the 
way, ' ' 

Camping by the river for the night, the 
ascent is made the next day, 

Mr, William Winter said of the Grand 
Canon : 

'' For the traveller, no emphasis of com- 
mendation would be excessive, American pil- 
grims will cross the ocean, will seek the Alps, 
will penetrate the wilds of Russian Siberia, 
will traverse Indian wilds and African des- 
erts, in search of novelty, and yet they will 
neglect this greatest of novelties, this surpass- 
ing wonder of their native land, , . . A 
pageant of ghastly desolation and yet of 
frightful vitality, such as neither Dante nor 
Milton in their most sublime conceptions ever 



THE GRAND CANON 125 

even approached. . . . Your heart is moved 
with feeling that is far too deep for words. 
Hour after hour you would sit, entranced, at 
the edge of this mighty subterranean spec- 
tacle, lost in the wonder and glory of it, for- 
getful of self, and conscious only of the 
Divine Spirit." 

*' If the falls of Niagara were installed in 
the Grand Canon between your visits and 
you knew it by the newspapers — next time 
you stood on that dizzy rimrock you would 
probably need good field-glasses and much 
patience before you could locate that cataract 
which in its place looks pretty big. If Mount 
Washington were plucked up bodily by the 
roots — not from where you see it, but from 
sea-level — and carefully set down in the 
Grand Canon, you probably would not notice 
it next morning, unless its dull colors dis- 
tinguished it in that innumerable congress of 
larger and painted giants. 

^' All this, which is literally true, is a mere 
trifle of what might be said in trying to fix a 
standard of comparison for the Grand Canon. 
But I fancy there is no standard adjustable 
to the human mind. You may compare all 
you will — eloquently and from wide experi- 
ence, and at last all similes fail. The Grand 
Canon is just the Grand Canon, and that is 



126 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

all you can say. I never have seen anyone 
who was prepared for it. I never have seen 
anyone who could grasp it in a week's hard 
exploration; nor anyone, except some rare 
Philistine, who could even think he had 
grasped it. I have seen people rave over it; 
better people struck dumb with it, even strong 
men who cried over it ; but I have never yet 
seen the man or woman that expected it."* 

Last, but by no means least, let me quote a 
few words from an article published in the 
Century Magazine by Mr. John Muir: 

** It seems a gigantic statement for even 
Nature to make, all in one stone word. Wild- 
ness so Godful, cosmic, primeval, bestows a 
new sense of earth's beauty and size. . . . 
But the colors, the living, rejoicing colors, 
chanting, morning and evening, in chorus to 
heaven. Whose brush or pencil, however lov- 
ingly inspired, can give us these? In the 
supreme flaming glory of sunset the whole 
Canon is transfigured, as if all the life and 
light of centuries of sunshine stored up in the 
rocks was now being poured forth as from 
one glorious fountain, flooding both earth and 
sky." 

I would suggest to any tourists going to 
the Grand Caiion that a book called '* The 
* Charles F. Lummis. 



THE GRAND CANON 127 

Grand Canon of Arizona," published by the 
Passenger Department of the Santa Fe Rail- 
road, will give them any number of beautiful 
descriptions and impressions, such as those 
quoted above. The book also contains many 
splendid pictures, which will familiarize them 
with certain spots in this marvellous place 
before reaching there. 



THE PAINTED DESERT 

Among ^he interesting trips to be taken 
from the Grand Canon is that to the Painted 
Desert, of which one hears very little, probably 
because it is a very difficult trip ; still it is per- 
fectly possible for any ordinarily hardy trav- 
eller. Five to seven days must be allowed and 
the journey is made on horse- or mule-back. 
The descent to the floor of the Canon is a rough 
ride and very fatiguing, but by no means 
dangerous. The Trail leads down canon after 
canon, dropping lower and lower, for it must 
be remembered that the Painted Desert lies 
200 feet below sea level, while the rim of the 
Canon from which we have started is 7,000 
feet above sea level. One can readily imagine 
the change in temperature during such a 
descent. In the desert the mercury stands 
at times at 115° ; however, those who care to 
put up with the hardships are likely to feel 
themselves fully repaid. 

An experienced guide is necessary, espe- 
cially on account of the quicksands which must 
be avoided in crossing the Little Colorado 
River. The colors of the sands, the mountains 
128 



THE PAINTED DESERT 129 

and the sky are indescribable; they are so 
brilliant as to seem absolutely unreal, while 
beyond in the distance is seen, in all its daz- 
zling whiteness of snow-capped peaks, the 
lovely San Francisco range, a fitting back- 
ground for this mad riot of color. 

The trip is not to be attempted by the fas- 
tidious, for washing and consequently much 
in the way of changes of clothing, is out of 
the question. The guides do the cooking and 
do it well, but it is necessarily of the simplest 
kind, as everything must be carried on the 
pack mules; the luncheons are cold, because 
at noonday the mule is not unpacked, still 
eggs can always be had, because they are 
cleverly carried in the animals ' feed ; even the 
water is carried, for that taken from the 
desert water-holes is so strongly alkali that 
one cannot even use it for washing purposes, 
it is so irritating. 

This trip can also be made from Zufii. 



THE FOSSIL FOEEST OF ARIZONA 

Mr. George Perkins Merrill says: 
'' The Fossil Forest of Arizona, one of the 
most remarkable features of a State noted for 
its scenic wonders, is situated a few miles 
south of Adamana, a station on the Santa Fe 
Railroad in Apache County. . . . Only 
within a few years have accommodations and 
transportation facilities been such as to tempt 
more than a very small proportion of the 
tourists and travellers to ' stop off ' on their 
through tickets to the Grand Canon and 
Pacific Coast. Since the setting aside of the 
area as a ' National Monument ' or Govern- 
ment Reservation, and the appointment of a 
Superintendent, the way has become easy, and 
the constantly increasing number of visitors 
has made the preparation of some form of 
scientific account of the Forest almost a 
necessity. ' ' 

This he follows by a careful geological ac- 
count of the Forest, which those who wish to 
read it can find. I shall say only a few words 
about this interesting spot. Here, as in the 
Great Petrified Forest in the Arabian Desert, 
130 



THE FOSSIL FOREST OF ARIZONA 131 

so called to distin^ish it from the Petrified 
Forest near Cairo, the trees are fallen and 
the great logs lie prone upon the ground, 
glittering fragments of jasper and earnelian 
all about them. There are not even standing 
stumps here, as in the Great Petrified Forest 
of the Arabian Desert, where superb speci- 
mens still may be seen. 

There are within the Reservation four for- 
ests, but the first is the one most generally 
visited. The trip through the first and second 
is made by carriage. The third may be 
reached the same evening; but here we camp 
for the night and visit this third forest the 
following morning, returning to Adamana in 
the afternoon. 

The third or Eainbow Forest is the prin- 
cipal one, which isjgenerally known as Chal- 
cedony Park. The ground here seems strewn 
with jewels, and one has the feeling of being 
in some enchanted spot. One of the most 
interesting features is the Natural Bridge, 
which is formed by the petrified trunk of one 
of these huge trees lying across a caiion, and 
which the venturesome tourist may cross. 

Professor Lester F. Ward, Paleontologist 
of the U. S. Geological Survey, who visited 
the great Petrified Forest in 1879 to make a 
report to the U. S. Geological Survey as to 



132 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

the advisability of setting that locality apart 
as a National Park, says in his report : 

* ' I went over the ground with considerable 
thoroughness and visited about all the locali- 
ties of interest, taking full notes of the scenic, 
geologic and scientific features. With regard 
to the first of these, viz., the scenic aspect, I 
can safely say that it has never been exag- 
gerated by any who have attempted to de- 
scribe this region. . . . These Petrified For- 
ests may be properly classed among the nat- 
ural wonders of America, and every reason- 
able effort should be made not only to pre- 
serve them from destructive influences, but 
also to make their existence and true charac- 
ter known to the people. . . . It is more 
ancient (the Arizona Petrified Forest) than 
the Petrified Forests of the Yellowstone Na- 
tional Park, of certain parts of Wyoming, and 
of the Calistoga deposits in California. 
These latter are of the Tertiary age, while the 
Arizona Forests belong far back in Mesozoic 
time, probably to the Triassic forma- 
tion. . . . The difference in their antiquity 
is therefore many millions of years. . . . 
There is no other petrified forest in which 
the wood assumes so many varied and inter- 
esting forms and colors, and it is these that 
present the chief attraction for the general 



THE MOQUI INDIAN 133 

public. The state of mineralization in which 
much of this wood exists almost places them 
among the gems or precious stones." 



THE NATURAL BRIDGE, ARIZONA 

** The Natural Bridge of Pine Creek, Ari- 
zona, is to the world's natural bridges what 
the Grand Canon of the Colorado River is 
to the world's chasms — the greatest, the 
grandest, the most bewildering. ... No 
photograph can ever give more than a hint of 
its appalling majesty."* 

This is a very difficult trip, one that can 
be taken only by the hardy traveller, so I 
shall give no details. Full particulars can be 
had from the Santa Fe offices. 



THE MOQUI INDIAN 

" One hundred miles north of the Petri- 
fied Forest of Arizona, and well into the edge 
of the Arizona Desert, are the seven strange 
and seldom visited pueblo cities of Moqui 
(also known as Hopi) built on the summits 

* Charles F. Lummis^ " Some Strange Corners of 
Our Country." 



134 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

of almost inaccessible mesas (may-sa), islands 
of solid rock, whose generally perpendicular 
cliff-walls rise high from the surrounding 
plain. 

'^ They are very remarkable towns in ap- 
pearance, set upon dizzy sites, with quaint 
terraced houses of adobe and queer little 
corrals for the animals in nooks and angles 
of the cliffs, and giving far outlook across the 
browns and yellows, and the spectral peaks 
of that weird plain. But they look not half 
so remarkable as they are. The most remote 
from civilization of all the pueblos, the least 
affected by the Spanish influence which so 
wonderfully ruled over the enormous area of 
the Southwest, and practically untouched by 
the later Saxon influence, the Indians of the 
Moqui towns retain almost entirely their won- 
derful customs of before the conquest. . . . 

" These Indians are the best weavers in 
America, except the once remarkable but 
now less skillful Navajo. . . . The Moqui 
also make valuable and curious fur blankets 
by twisting the skins of rabbits into ropes 
and then sewing these together. . . . 

''It is in these strange, cliff-perched little 
cities that one of the most astounding bar- 
baric dances in the world is held. Africa has 
no savages whose mystic performances are 



THE MOQUI INDIAN 135 

more wonderful than the Moqui snake 
dance." 

I cannot possibly give an account here 
of this most interesting function, but the 
reader will find full particulars in Mr. 
Charles F. Lummis's most fascinating book, 
'' Some Strange Corners of Our Country," 
from which I have quoted. 

" The snake is an object of great respect 
among all uncivilized peoples, and the dead- 
lier his power, the deeper the reverence for 
him. The Pueblos often protect in their 
houses an esteemed and harmless serpent — 
about five or six feet long — as a mouse trap ; 
and these quiet mousers keep down the little 
pests much more effectively than a cat, for 
they can follow shee-id-deh to the ultimate 
corner of his hole." 

Up to a generation ago every Pueblo pro- 
tected at least one sacred rattlesnake, but 
now I believe the Moqui Indians alone con- 
tinue the custom, and Mr. Lummis tells us 
that once a year the remarkable ceremony of 
the snake dance is still performed, and that 
after it is over he has seen the hillock of rat- 
tlesnakes a foot high and four feet across. 
' ' The dancers leap about this squirming pile 
while sacred corn meal is sprinkled, then 
thrust each an arm into the mass, grasp a 



136 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

number of snakes, and go running at top 
speed to the four points of the compass and 
the unharmed snakes are released. ' ' * 

This Reservation is reached via the Santa 
Fe Railway to Gallup, New Mexico, thence 
by buckboard or automobile to St. Michaels, 
thence to Kean's Canon by buckboard or 
stage, via Granado, six times a week, 105 
miles, or from Holbrook, Arizona, by hired 
conveyance, 85 miles (about $28.00; from 
Gallup about $18.00). 



NAVAJO RESERVATION 

To the north and east of the Moqui Reser- 
vation is the Navajo Reservation, also acces- 
sible via the Santa Fe Railway. These In- 
dians, unlike their neighbors, will not even 
touch a snake. Mr. Lummis tells a most 
interesting story of his having had a Navajo 
Indian make for him a silver bracelet in the 
form of a snake. So extreme are their 
prejudices that this silversmith was almost 
beaten to death by his fellows, and the brace- 
let, together with his hut, were destroyed. 

The Navajo reveres the bear as the Moqui 

* Charles F. Lummis, " Some Strange Corners of 
Our Country." 



ZVSl 137 

does the snake. They even go so far as to 
make prayers and sacrifices to him. They are 
the most wonderful of jugglers. Dr. Wash- 
ington Matthews, who was the foremost stu- 
dent of Navajo customs, said officially: '' I 
have seen many fire scenes on the stage, many 
acts of fire-eating and fire-handling by civil- 
ized jugglers, but nothing comparable to 
this." 



ZUNI 

Zuni is also reached by the Santa Fe Rail- 
road from Gallup. This is said to be the larg- 
est of all the pueblos. At Zuni, Mr. Frank 
Hamilton Gushing passed many years of his 
life, as a member of the tribe; this famous 
ethnologist probably learned more of the 
real Indian, because more closely associated 
with him, than any other white man has 
done; he is the authority on this particular 
tribe. 

Conveyances can be had at Gallup and the 
trip to Zuni is made in eight hours. Carriages 
are from $4.00 to $6.00 a day, according 
to seating capacity. There is a trading post 
en rout By where luncheon can be had. 

The Pueblo of Zuni lies in a level plain 



138 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

on the southern bank of the Zufii River. The 
architecture of the Pueblo (permanent home) 
is unique, unlike anything else in the world. 
Zufii may be seen many miles off, owing to 
the irregularity in the height of the houses, 
some of which are ^Ye stories, and the irregu- 
lar lay of the land upon which they are built. 
To the tourist the approach may be disap- 
pointing, especially if seen after Acoma, 
built upon its great rock mesa ; but why com- 
pare such different spots? each has a charm 
of its own. The ladders which are seen upon 
all sides at Zufii, add greatly to its picturesque 
appearances ; they have been well described as 
** a wilderness of masts.'' 

Pottery is the great industry of the Zuni, 
in which art they excel ; not only are the jars, 
bowls, etc., beautifully shaped, but the decora- 
tive designs, mostly semi-geometric, and the 
combining of the reds, browns and black are 
wonderfully artistic. 

A great many religious rites exist in Zuni, 
some such celebration taking place every 
month, many in the open air, so that it is 
possible that the tourist may chance upon one 
of these at almost any time ; but as the Indian 
is in the main conservative, it is probable that 
the most important ceremonies are still hidden 
from ordinary sight. There is a famous Zufii 



PUEBLO OF COCHITI 139 

dance held in November, each year, which 
may be witnessed by all. There are many 
shrines in this vicinity, where visitors are 
allowed, the most important of which is the 
one on Thunder Mountain, quite a climb, but 
worthy the effort; here the Zuni still make 
their offerings of prayersticks, etc., to the 
gods to whom this shrine is dedicated. 



PUEBLO OF COCHITI 

'' The fable of the so-called Cliff-builders 
and Cave-dwellers, as a distinct race, or 
races, has been absolutely exploded in 
science. The fact is that the cliff-dwellers 
and cave-dwellers of the Southwest were 
Pueblo Indians, pure and simple. 

" The most extensive and wonderful cave 
communities in the world are in the great 
Cochiti upland, some 50 miles northwest of 
Santa Fe, New Mexico. The journey is a 
very laborious one, but by no means danger- 
ous ; and if you can get my good Indian com- 
padre, Jose Hilario Montoya, now Governor 
of the Pueblo of Cochiti, to guide you, you 
are apt to remember it as the most interest- 
ing expedition of your life. " * 

*Lummis, published in 1911. 



140 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

** In the superbly picturesque canon of the 
Eito de los Frigoles is the largest of all the 
villages of caves, deserted for more than 400 
years. Outside its unnumbered cave-rooms 
were more rooms yet, of masonry of ' bricks ' 
cut from the same cliff. 

" A few miles farther up the Rio Grande, 
not down in a canon, but on the top of the 
great plateau, nearly 2,000 feet above the 
river, are two huge castle-like buttes of 
chalky tufa, each some 200 feet high. They 
stand one on each side of the dividing gulf 
of the Santa Clara Canon, and are known to 
the Indians, respectively, as the Pu-ye and 
the Shu-fin-ne. They are the most easily 
accessible of the large cave villages of North 
America, being not over 10 miles from the 
little railroad town of Espaiiola, on the Rio 
Grande, some 30 miles by rail from Santa 
Fe. 

'' In this same wild region are the only 
great stone idols (or, to speak more properly, 
fetiches) in the United States — the mountain 
lions of Cochiti. They are life size and 
carved from the solid bedrock on the top of 
two huge mesas. To this day, the Indians of 
Cochiti before a hunt go to one of these 
almost inaccessible spots, anoint the great 
stone head and dance by night a wild dance, 



ACOMA AND LAGUNA PUEBLOS 141 

which no white man has seen or ever will 



see. 



" * 



This region is reached via Santa Fe Rail- 
road, by which road several canons of cliff- 
builders are easily accessible. 



THE PUEBLOS OF ACOMA AND 
LAGUNA 

Acoma is 13 miles south of the Santa Fe 
Railway in the western part of New Mexico. 
It is reached from Laguna, which is in itself 
another most interesting place; it is the 
most recent of all the pueblos, having been 
founded in 1699. 

'' Of all the 19 pueblos of New Mexico, 
Acoma is by far the most wonderful. In- 
deed, it is probably the most remarkable city 
in the world. Perched upon the level summit 
of a great * box ' of rock whose perpendicular 
sides are nearly 400 feet high, and reached 
by some of the dizziest paths ever trodden 
by human feet, the prehistoric town looks 
far across the wilderness. Its quaint terraced 
houses of gray adobe, its huge church — 
hardly less wonderful than the pyramids of 
Egypt as a monument of patient toil — its 

* Lummis. 



142 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

great reservoir in the solid rock, its superb 
scenery, its romantic history and the strange 
customs of its 600 people, all are rife with 
interest to the few Americans who visit the 
isolated city. Neither history nor tradition 
tells us when Acoma was founded. The 
pueblo was once situated on top of the Mesa 
Encantada (Enchanted Tableland), which 
rises 700 feet in air near the mesa now occu- 
pied. . . . 

'' The present Acoma was an old town 
when the first European — Coronado, the 
famous Spanish explorer — saw it in 1540. 
With that its authentic history begins — a 
strange, weird history, in scattered frag- 
ments. . . . 

*' Acoma is a labyrinth of wonders, of 
which no person alive knows all; the longest 
visit never wears out its glamour. One feels 
as among scenes and beings more than human, 
whose very rocks are genii and whose people 
swart conjurors. It is spendthrift of beauty. 
... It is the noblest specimen of fantastic 
erosion on the continent." 

Laguna lies about 20 miles northeast of 
Acoma. Mr. Lummis, from whom I quote 
the above, tells a most interesting story of a 
lawsuit carried on between these two cities 
over the picture of a saint. The story can 



THE APACHE 143 

be found in " Some Strange Corners of Our 
Country." Not only does the writer know 
these strange comers, but he has a most won- 
derful way of making his readers see them as 
they read. 



THE APACHE 

The Apache Reservations are in Arizona 
and New Mexico. There is one, about 100 
miles from El Paso, on the border of Texas 
and New Mexico, but perhaps the most ac- 
cessible for tourists is the San Carlos Agency 
of the White Mountain Reservation, reached 
by a daily stage from Holbrook to Fort 
Apache, a distance of 96 miles. This is a 
hard trip, leaving Holbrook at about 3 P.M. 
and reaching Fort Apache the next morning 
at about 8 o'clock. The trip can be made by 
private conveyance from Holbrook, stopping 
for meals and lodgings en route, and travel- 
ling as slowly as one pleases. 

There is really little of interest to the gen- 
eral tourist concerning the Apache. At least 
there are no ruins, for this tribe lived in te- 
pees made of twigs, and not in pueblos, or 
permanent homes. 

** Basket making is the principal industry 



144 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

among the women, two kinds being produced, 
the bowl-like basket tsa and the tus, ' sewed 
water jug.' The coils of these baskets are 
made of either cottonwood or willow. Ex- 
cellently woven burden baskets are also 
made. ' ' * 



THE AMERICAN SAHARA 

** The Great American Desert was almost 
better known a generation ago than it is to- 
day. Then thousands of the hardy Argo- 
nauts had traversed that fearful waste on 
foot with their dawdling ox trains, and hun- 
dreds of them had left their bones to bleach 
in that thirsty land. The survivors of those 
deadly journeys had a very definite idea of 
what that desert was, but now that we can 
roll across it in a day in Pullman palace 
cars, its real and still existing horrors are 
largely forgotten. 

** The first scientific exploration of this 
deadly area was Lieutenant "Wheeler's United 
States survey in the early fifties ; and he was 
the first to give scientific assurance that we 
have here a desert as absolute as the Sa- 
hara. 

* Geo. A. Dorsey, " Indians of the Southwest." 



TEE AMEBIC AN SAHARA 145 

* * It is full of strange, burnt, ragged moun- 
tain ranges, with deceptive, sloping, broad 
valleys between. There are countless extinct 
volcanoes upon it and hundreds of square 
miles of black bristling lava flows. The sum- 
mer heat is inconceivable, often reaching 136 
degrees in the shade; even in winter the 
midday heat is sometimes insufferable, while 
at night ice frequently forms on the water 
tanks. 

*' There are oases in the desert, chief of 
which are the narrow valleys of the Mojave 
River and the lower Colorado. It is a 
strange thing to see that soft green ribbon 
athwart the molten landscape. 

** The Arabian simoon is not deadlier than 
the sandstorm of the Colorado Desert (as the 
lower half is generally called). Man or beast 
caught in one of those sand-laden tempests 
has little chance of escape. 

'* In the southern portions of the desert 
are many strange freaks of vegetable life — 
huge cacti 60 feet tall and as large around as 
a barrel, with singular arms, which make 
them look like gigantic candelabra; smaller 
but equally fantastic varieties of cactus, 
from the tall, lithe ocalilla, or whipstock cac- 
tus, down to the tiny knob smaller than a 
china cup. There are countless more modest 



146 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

flowers, too, and in the rainy season thou- 
sands of square miles are carpeted thick with 
a floral carpet, which makes it hard for the 
traveller to believe that he is really gazing 
upon a desert. . . . 

'* Few people are aware that there are 
wild camels in North America, but it is none 
the less true. Many years ago a number of 
these * ships of the desert ' were imported 
from Africa by an enthusiastic Yankee, who 
proposed to use them in freighting across 
the American Sahara. The scheme failed ; the 
camels escaped to the desert, where they oc- 
casionally appear and nearly frighten the 
wits out of some ignorant prospector, who 
strays into their grim domain. 

** This great desert is over 1,500 miles 
long from north to south and nearly half as 
wide. The most fatally famous part is 
Death Valley, in California. There is on all 
the globe no other spot so forbidding, so 
desolate, so deadly. ' ' * 

* Charles F. Lummis, " Some Strange Corners of 
Our Country." 



THE YOSEMITE VALLEY 

The most usual entrances are via Fresno 
and Merced. The best time is perhaps April 
or May, while the falls are still full. From 
Merced to El Portal (the gate), the Yosemite 
Valley Railway runs some 70 miles along the 
banks of the Merced River, for which trip 
take your seat on the right-hand side of the 
train (right as^one stands facing the engine) ; 
the view is better from this side. The train 
crosses and recrosses this gaily romping river, 
and the Valley changes continually, the walls 
becoming quite high in places and the river 
foaming rapids. 

Reaching El Portal in the late afternoon, 
one climbs up a winding footpath through a 
picturesque tangle of brush to the Hotel Del 
Portal, where all the necessary comforts are 
provided (unless one counts a door key a 
necessary comfort ; here there is no such thing, 
no bolt or lock on any bedroom door) . After 
passing the night in this delightful spot, you 
will take the stage, which leaves at 7 A.M., 
for the Valley (four hours). The road is a 
147 



148 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

splendidly built, though decidedly narrow, 
well-sprinkled Government road, which again 
follows the winding course of the Merced 
Kiver, and from which giant granite walls 
reach up toward the sky on either side. 

Arriving at El Capitan, the great rock 
7,630 feet high which stands, as it were, at 
the inner gate of this Paradise, we learn that 
this mountain of granite exhibits to view 400 
acres of bare rock! Yet this is only one of 
many. The Valley is seven miles long and 
three-quarters of a mile wide. It lies 4,060 
feet above sea level and is enclosed by walls 
rising from 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the floor 
of the Valley. Many delightful trips may 
be taken here. They are all carefully organ- 
ized and are conducted by guides, who know 
and love the place. 

Before passing El Capitan notice the ex- 
quisite Bridal Veil Falls on the opposite side, 
higher than the highest falls in Switzerland. 
On the same (northern) side, beyond El 
Capitan, we see The Three Brothers. One of 
these peaks (3,700 feet) is accessible by trail, 
and from this summit one gets one of the 
finest views of the Valley. Next may be 
noticed Cathedral Spires, and on the south 
side Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Dome. These 
domes are, I believe, peculiar to this region. 



TEE YOSEMITE VALLEY 149 

North Dome and South Dome are most curi- 
ous and interesting. There are trails lead- 
ing to nearly all of these individual crests, 
and oh ! such satisfying views. 

Of all the falls, the one called, like the Val- 
ley — Yosemite — is the finest. It is the high- 
est known fall of its volume. Here the waters 
dash down one-half mile. The fall is really 
in three sections, but appears all one at a dis- 
tance. In the early spring when the volume 
is greatest, the booming of water is deafening 
and the force with which it strikes the ground 
shakes windows one mile away. 

From Yosemite Point, the crest above the 
falls, the view is magnificent, but the tourist 
must not fail to walk to the foot of this fall 
to really appreciate it. The sensation thus 
received is one never to be forgotten. 

The Flora and Fauna are enchanting. 
There seem to be scores of varieties of wild 
flowers, shrubs, ferns, etc. For the botanist 
going into the Valley, I should advise that 
he apply for a small manual called ** Yo- 
semite Flora," issued by the Department of 
Botany in the University of California, 
Berkeley. The small furred and feathered 
creatures seem to have no fear. 

** The weather is mostly sunshine, embel- 
lished with magnificent storms, and nearly 



150 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

everything shines from base to summit. The 
average cloudiness for the whole year is per- 
haps less than ten hundredths. Scarcely a 
day of all summer is dark, though there is no 
lack of magnificent thundering cumuli. . . . 
"Well may the Sierra be called the Eange of 
Light, not the snowy range, for only in winter 
is it white, while all the year it is bright. 

'* Of this glorious range the Yosemite Na- 
tional Park is a central section, 36 miles in 
length and 48 miles in breadth. The famous 
Yosemite Valley lies in the heart of it, and it 
includes the head waters of the Tuolumne and 
Merced Kivers, two of the most songful 
streams in the world. . . . 

** Nowhere will you see the majestic opera- 
tions of nature more clearly revealed beside 
the frailest, most gentle and peaceful things. 
Nearly all the Park is a profound solitude. 
The hours go by uncounted. No other moun- 
tain chain on the globe, as far as I know, is 
so rich as the Sierra in bold, striking, well- 
preserved glacial monuments, easily under- 
stood by anybody capable of patient observa- 
tion. 

*' Every feature is more or less glacial, and 
this park portion of the range is the brightest 
and clearest of all. Not a peak, ridge, dome, 
canon, lake basin, garden, forest or stream 



THE YOSEMITE VALLEY 151 

but in some way explains the past existence 
and modes of action of flowing, grinding, 
sculpturing, soil-making, scenery-making 
ice. . . . 

'* Of all the glacial phenomena presented 
here, the most striking and attractive to trav- 
ellers are the polished pavements, because 
they are so beautiful, and their beauty is of 
so rare a kind — unlike any part of the loose 
earthy lowlands, where people dwell and earn 
their bread. They are simply flat or gently 
undulating areas of solid resisting granite, 
the unchanged surface over which the ancient 
glaciers flowed. . . . 

'' Of the small shrinking glaciers of the 
Sierra, remnants of the majestic system that 
sculptured the range, I have seen sixty-five. 
About twenty-five of them are in the Park, 
and eight are in sight from Mount Dana. ' ' * 

The Sentinel Hotel is the only one in the 
Valley, but there are various camps, where the 
tourist is made most comfortable at a little 
less expense than in the Hotel. Camp Lost 
Arrow, Camp Awahnee and Camp Curry are 
all excellent. Allow from $8.00 to $10.00 per 
day, which will probably cover everything. 

Before leaving the Yosemite Valley, the 
Lower Drive must surely be taken by those 

* John Muir, " Our National Parks," Century Co. 



152 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

who have not had time to take this trip on 
foot. The Valley is so small that the floor 
can be pretty thoroughly explored in a single 
drive, and it is most pleasing to carry away 
with us a picture of this green spot, starred 
over with the lovely wild flowers, for it is 
like an oasis in the desert. Our trip up the 
trail on the morrow, leading over the bare, 
brown face of rocky cliffs, will have amid the 
white of the everlasting snows and the spark- 
ling of the sunlight in the various falls, only 
the occasional appearing and disappearing of 
this emerald Valley threaded by the silver 
stream of the Merced to give it color. 

The climb to Glacier Point is made cross- 
saddle only and the traveller who has gone 
out unprepared for such a trip, can rent a 
skirt by simply making known her want when 
she engages her horse or mule. 

When your time in the Valley is up, an ex- 
cellent way to leave is by taking the famous 
trail to Glacier Point. Arrange to drive up 
the beautiful Tenaya Canon to Mirror Lake 
in the early morning and see the sun rise over 
the edge of the great precipice and shed its 
golden light upon this deep, still pool, which 
before sunrise looks like a black hole in the 
ground, so vividly are the great domes and 
peaks reflected; but as we watch, a yellow 



GLACIER POINT 153 

thread appears, a golden glow, at the bottom 
of the pit, and in a moment, all illusions 
gone, all shadows fled, the dazzling splendor 
of the fully risen snn is shining back at us, 
blinding us, and we pass on. 

From here a short drive, passing Cathedral 
Rocks, Cloud's Rest and other fine peaks 
brings us to the spot called " Happy Isles," 
where the sure-footed mules are waiting to 
make the five-hour ascent to Glacier Point, 
which is 7,297 feet high. This trip is thought 
by many to be the most satisfying of all the 
trails, and I believe gives a more complete 
view of the entire Valley than any other. It 
winds up the east end past the foot of the 
beautiful Vernal Falls, and up, up, over the 
top, past the splendid Nevada Falls and anon 
over the top, zigzagging back and forth; on 
every turn the most exquisite views greet our 
sight. Liberty Cap and Mount Starr King, 
as seen from the point on this trail known as 
Panorama View, 4,000 feet above the Valley, 
are more impressive than any words can tell. 



GLACIER POINT 

At Glacier Point we find again a comfort- 
able hotel, the Glacier Point Hotel, with a 



154 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

veranda which makes one want to stay in- 
definitel}^, so wonderful is the view seen from 
it, with the Valley, the Falls, and ridge after 
ridge of the lovely Sierra Nevada Mountains. 
(In writing for rooms, be sure to ask for 
those overlooking the Valley.) 

From here walk or ride to Sentinel Dome. 
I need only say of the view from this point 
that one of our veteran geologists has spoken 
of it as ' ' the grandest sight on earth. ' ' 



WAWONA AND THE MARIPOSA 
GROVE 

Glacier Point is the starting point for those 
who have come this way to Wawona. The 
drive leads through beautiful woods (four 
hours), and here again is a delightful hotel 
(Wawona Hotel), from whence, after passing 
the night, we drive to the Mariposa Grove of 
Big Trees, where the stage passes through the 
living archways, which have been cut through 
several of these monsters. So much has been 
said of the Big Trees that I can add nothing. 
I think they are the most impressive sight, ex- 
cept perhaps one or two spots in the Far East, 
to be found in the world to-day, and while 
those fine old ruins of Europe are the dead 



THE HETCH-HETCHY VALLEY 155 

monuments of a dead people, these great trees 
are the living monuments of a world that was 
old before Europe was born. But what re- 
spect have we for age ? They tell us that the 
Big Trees are 4,000 years old, and yet mod- 
ern man has ruthlessly cut the heart from 
several of these prehistoric kings that the 
nineteenth century pleasure-seeker may drive 
through the living gateway and so enjoy one 
more new sensation. 

It is said that it has not hurt the trees, but 
who knows for how many lives of men these 
noble giants may be able to conceal their 
wounds and still die of them in the end? 

By returning to Wawona for another night, 
one may drive back to El Portal the next day ; 
it is a long drive (seven hours), but inde- 
scribably beautiful, and gets us back to El 
Portal in time to have dinner and if necessary 
to leave by the night train, which will put us 
into San Francisco in time for breakfast the 
following morning. 



THE HETCH-HETCHY VALLEY 

The Hetch-Hetchy Valley lies 14 miles 
north of the Yosemite Valley; it is about 
three miles long and less than a mile wide. 



156 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

The Tuolumne River runs through the Valley, 
the walls rise about 2,000 feet, the waterfalls 
are exceptionally beautiful. The North 
Dome, to the east of the Heteh-Hetchy Falls, 
rises 6,400 feet. There are many wonderful 
domes and peaks. 

The trip to the Heteh-Hetchy Valley can 
be made on horseback from the Yosemite by 
the Tenaya Canon, Smedberg and Benson 
Lakes, and as in all these regions, there are 
camps along the route. 

To the north of the Heteh-Hetchy Valley is 
the Tuolomne Canon, famous for its water- 
falls. The walls of this Canon are from 3,000 
to 4,000 feet high. It can also be reached 
from the Yosemite. 



KINGS RIVER CANON 

This Canon is said to be a close second in 
beauty to the Yosemite; in fact, it is claimed 
that Mr. Muir called it a second Yosemite. 

Here are Big Trees, peaks of the high Sier- 
ras and splendid fishing streams. 

Tulare County, the greater part of which 
lies between Kings River to the north and the 
Kern River to the south, is traversed by the 
Kaweah River. If it were not in California, 



KINGS EIVER CANON 157 

a State so full of wonderful scenic attractions, 
it would undoubtedly be the show place of 
this entire region. 

One should have Mr. Muir's power of words 
in any way to do justice to this Canon, or 
series of canons. I hardly know where to 
begin. Drury says: 

*' Kings River Caiion is a deep cleft in the 
Sierra Nevadas running from east to west. 
The sides are not as precipitous as those of 
Yosemite nor are there the immense water- 
falls that mark the upper course of the Mer- 
ced, but the Canon is much more extensive 
and the surrounding peaks are as high. There 
are great domes and granite crags on all sides, 
which lend a strange and rugged appearance 
to the skyline. 

** Throughout this region are scattered 
green meadows and mountain lakes, torrential 
streams with rolling cascades and waterfalls, 
sheer cliffs and towering, snow-capped peaks. 
In the floor of the Canon rushes the Kings 
River." 

This river consists of three forks, the 
north, south and middle, and it is hard to say 
which is the most attractive. The canon of 
the middle fork is not as easily accessible as 
that of the south, which is reached by the 
Southern Pacific Railroad, stopping at San- 



158 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

ger, whence automobiles run daily, except 
Sundays, leaving at about half -past seven in 
the morning, stopping for luncheon and see- 
ing the General Grant Park en route, and 
reaching Hume Camp at half -past six. The 
tree called General Grant in the Park of the 
same name is said to be the largest tree in 
the world. 

Parties can leave Visalia, via Visalia 
Electric Line, for Lemon Cove (21 miles). 
Here a stage will meet the train for Juanita 
Meadows, leaving at 7 A.M. and arriving at 1 
P.M. There is a small frame hotel at Mea- 
dows, from which the trails may be taken. 

If you have gone via Hume and stopped in 
the camp overnight, you will leave by pack 
train at 8 o'clock the next morning and make 
the trip eastward and beside the river to 
Horse Corral, where you camp again, and the 
third day, from the wonderful Lookout Point, 
the descent is made to the Caiion. Down a 
three-mile zigzag trail we pass, making a 
drop of over 3,000 feet, while one beautiful, 
view after another opens up before us. 

At Cedar Grove the floor is reached and the 
river crossed. The six miles up the Canon 
to Camp Kaweah is a ride that would gladden 
the heart of anyone. At this camp you may 
stop a day or a week or indefinitely. There 



KINGS BIVEB CANON 159 

are numberless beautiful spots to be visited. 
The river comes tumbling down the gorge in 
cascades and picturesque falls, and only five 
or six miles off is the beautiful Paradise 
Valley. 

The trail leading to Bubbs Creek is per- 
haps the finest, leading eastward and giving 
the view of the great snow-clad mountains. 
A chain of glacial lakes lies below the trail 
and back of them the Kearsarge Pinnacles, 
University Peak (13,950 feet), and many 
other superb mountain crests. 

But look at your map of California and 
see what a marvellous region this is. In 
among these mountains is Whitney (14,898 
feet), the highest peak in the United States, 
as well as many others of no mean size. Only 
a little to the east and flowing southward is 
another lovely river, the Kern River. This 
Canon must not be forgotten. It may be 
reached in various ways, either across the 
Kearsarge Pass, down to Independence and 
Lone Pine or by going back to Horse Corral, 
leaving there the next day for Alta Meadows, 
across to Mineral King, over Franklin Pass 
and so down into the Kern Canon. 



160 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



THE KEARSARGE PASS 

The Kearsarge Pass is one of the highest 
of all the Sierra Passes, 12,056 feet. It is 
literally on the sharp edge of the mountain 
range, so narrow that, we are told, the horse 
strides it, standing on both sides of the range 
at once. What an experience! What a 
chance for contrasting the two sides of this 
wonderful range, the long, green slope of the 
west, and the steep, bare, rocky descent of the 
east! 

But we have still not explored this region. 
I mentioned the General Grant Park to be 
visited in going to the Kings River Canon, 
but have made no allusion to the fact that 
the great Sequoia National Park also lies be- 
tween these two rivers. 

The descent from Kearsarge Pass to Inde- 
pendence and Lone Pine will bring the trav- 
eller to the Kern River Canon, where again 
enthusiasts tell us that the scenery cannot 
be excelled. One may spend weeks in this 
region, going from camp to camp, for endless 
numbers of these places have now been made 
accessible. 



SEQUOIA NATIONAL PABK 161 



SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK 

Mr. John Muir, who probably knows more 
about the Big Trees than anyone else, says : 

" Far the largest and most important sec- 
tion of protected Big Trees is in the grand 
Sequoia National Park, now easily accessible 
by stage from Visalia, via the Southern Pa- 
cific or Santa Fe Railroad. It contains 
seven townships and extends across the whole 
breadth of the magnificent Kaweah Basin. 
But large as it is, it should be made much 
larger. Its natural eastern boundary is the 
high Sierra, and the northern and southern 
boundaries the Kings and Kern Rivers, thus 
including the sublime scenery on the head- 
waters of these rivers and perhaps nine- 
tenths of all the Big Trees in existence. . . . 
The value of these forests in storing and dis- 
pensing the bounty of the mountain clouds is 
infinitely greater than lumber or sheep. 

'' To the dwellers of the plain, dependent 
on irrigation, the Big Tree, leaving all its 
higher uses out of the count, is a tree of life, 
a never-failing spring, sending living water 
to the lowlands all through the hot, rainless 
summer. For every grove cut down a stream 



162 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

is dried up. Therefore, all California is cry- 
ing, ' Save the trees of the fountains,' nor, 
judging by the signs of the times, is it likely 
that the cry will cease until the salvation of 
all that is left of Sequoia gigantea is sure. ' ' 

In this park are the groves known as 
'' Giant Forest," of about 5,000 Big Trees 
exceeding 10 feet in diameter ; ' ' Muir Grove, ' ' 
of 3,000 trees exceeding 10 feet in diameter, 
and '* Garfield Grove," with almost as many 
trees of equal size. The Sequoia National 
Park is 161,597 acres in area.* 

*"Our National Parks." 



SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 

In the southern part of California we will 
take Los Angeles as a starting point for all 
trips, just as in the more northern parts we 
took San Francisco and Sacramento. 

Los Angeles is a city of great charm and of 
lovely homes. The climate is famous all over 
our country. There are many parks, which 
are veritable gardens of bloom and tropical 
plant life. Being one of the great cities of 
the West, none of which can be described in 
short meter, I must leave Los Angeles, as I 
have done the other cities, for you to discover 
for yourself. In any of the big cities of this 
country nowadays one has only to take one or 
two of the tours made by the many observa- 
tion cars to get a very fair general idea of the 
lay of the land. 

Numerous trips may be made to the coast 
from Los Angeles by motor, carriage or trol- 
ley, and many of the citizens have charming 
summer homes just a short drive from their 
town or winter home. 



163 



164 CALIFORNIA AND THE WE8T 



BEVERLEY HILLS 

Beverley Hills is a delightful suburb, where 
there is a fine modem hotel, Beverley Hills 
Hotel, and every comfort may be enjoyed. 
The bracing salt air of the Pacific Coast blows 
over this spot in a most satisfying way, and 
one has the benefit of the Pacific Electric Line 
running to and from Los Angeles. 



SANTA MONICA 

A little farther on, by the same line, we 
reach Santa Monica, a popular resort, with 
various places of amusement, built on a bluff 
overlooking the ocean, from which one gets 
a view of the long, white, sandy beach, which 
leads on to Ocean Park, a popular resort on 
the order of Atlantic City, N. J. 



SAN PEDRO 

San Pedro, the fine Los Angeles port, on 
the coast, some 20 miles from the center of 
the city and reached by the Pacific Electric 
or one of the various railroads of that region, 



SAN PEDRO 165 

is the starting point for Santa Catalina 
Island. Comfortable steamers make the trip 
in about two hours. It may be as smooth a 
crossing as one may desire and again I have 
seen it very rough. It is a beautiful sail al- 
most due south. Here one is strongly re- 
minded of the Mediterranean Sea, with the 
deep blue of the water and the mountainous 
islands rising right out of the sea. 



SANTA CATALINA ISLAND 

The first view of Santa Catalina is one to 
rejoice the soul, especially if one chances to 
approach it through one of the soft white 
mists which at times hang over these waters. 
This was the case on the day of my first trip 
there, — the mist lifting and rolling away, 
while we were still some miles off, — the full 
splendor of the noonday sun bringing out the 
Island as we stood in the bow of the ap- 
proaching ship. 

* ' The Island is in reality a range of moun- 
tains 23 miles long and sufficiently rugged in 
its upper reaches to win the devotion of the 
most venturesome. The highest peak, Ori- 
zala, has an elevation of 2,200 feet. For 
genuine excitement the visitor will choose a 
trip to the Crags to hunt the wild goats. 
Horses, guides, rifles and other necessaries 
are obtainable on the Island."* 

For my part, I was happy enough without 
such wild sport, but this is a spot which 
would satisfy anyone from Mr. Roosevelt, with 

* Drury. 
166 



SANTA CATALINA ISLAND 167 

his love of adventure, to the frailest invalid, 
with a desire only for a warm, sunny, peace- 
ful spot in which to rest and grow strong. 

The land slopes gently down to the water's 
edge. The landward side of the Island, being 
shaped like a great crescent, presents to the 
gaze of the approaching traveller a lovely 
green amphitheater, in the center of which 
stands the Hotel Metropole (there are count- 
less other hotels, boarding houses and camps, 
but this is the best), to the left the Open 
Air Theater, where the band plays each even- 
ing, and other places of amusement, also the 
starting place of the little incline road, 
which takes to the top of the mountain those 
who do not care to climb. On either side good 
roads lead off over hill and dale. Horses and 
vehicles are to be had for the drives, which 
are of unusual beauty. The Aquarium, 
though only a small beginning, has some 
specimens of rare interest. I found there a 
few things which the world-famous aquarium 
at Naples lacked. The Glass-bottomed Boats 
are a never-ending source of interest. One 
cannot resist them. These comfortably-fitted 
boats, with dark canopy covers, can be hired 
at a very small price, and one sits spellbound, 
gazing down into the lovely marine gardens, 
watching the exquisitely colored fish as they 



168 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

pass silently to and fro, brilliant blue in the 
sunshine, dark in the shadow, while the glint 
of the goldfish now here, now there, never 
ceases. 

" And life, in rare and beautiful forms, 
Is sporting amid those bowers of stone, 
And is safe, where the wrathful spirit of storms 
Has made the top of the wave his own." * 

The seaweed is so heavy in places that it 
suggests a forest under water, trees with 
leaves of every shape, bearing various fruits 
and berries. In the evening take the boat 
which leaves the pier at about 8 o'clock, bear- 
ing a fine searchlight. This light, being 
thrown upon the water, attracts the flying 
fish in great shoals. They rise and fly, follow- 
ing the path of light and make a very beauti- 
ful show, seeming like some fairy form of 
life with their transparent silver wings. 

* J. G. Percival. 



PASADENA 

Pasadena, about ten miles northeast of 
Los Angeles, lies in the lovely, fertile valley 
of San Gabriel, where thousands of tourists 
come annually to the Floral Parade and Eose 
Tournament. More lovely homes can be seen 
here than in any one place in California. The 
city is beautifully laid out and planted. Its 
avenues, the finest of which is Marengo 
Avenue, with its exquisite Pepper Trees on 
either side, presents a picture hard to equal. 
There are very fine sunken gardens belonging 
to some of the private houses, but the entire 
residence section looks like one vast park. 
The trees in this State of California are a 
never-ending source of delight. 



MOUNT LOWE 

To the north of Pasadena is Mount Lowe. 
This trip is made from Los Angeles by the 
Pacific Electric and takes about two hours. 
The car stops at Pasadena for passengers from 
there, then very soon begins to run upgrade 



170 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

and into the Rubio Canon, where we leave 
the electric and take a cable car up to Echo 
Mountain, 3,500 feet above sea level, where 
a really superb view lies spread before us on 
all sides. From Echo a car runs to Alpine 
Tavern, quite an exciting bit of the trip, fol- 
lowing in places the very edge of the preci- 
pice. The Tavern, they tell us, is 5,000 feet 
above sea level, and from here there are sev- 
eral delightful trails, all ending in superb 
views which, Baedeker tells us, extend 100 
miles in every direction. 



MOUNT WILSON 

Mount Wilson is a little to the southeast of 
Mount Lowe, and makes another interesting 
excursion. Like Mount Lowe, it is reached 
by the Pacific Electric Railway, which takes 
us almost to the top. The last bit can be 
made on foot. Here again are fine views, and 
on the summit we find the Carnegie Solar Ob- 
servatory, with the largest solar reflecting 
telescope in the world. Those wishing to re- 
main overnight can do so. There is a hotel, 
the Mount Wilson; also a camp. 

Starting northward from Los Angeles, see 
Burhank. 



SANTA BARBARA 171 



VENTURA 



Ventura is the town for the Mission San 
Buenaventura, very picturesque and in good 
preservation. At Carpenteria we are shown 
the largest grapevine in the world, not as old 
as the famous vine at Hampton Court, Eng- 
land, but much larger. Here also, in a beau- 
tiful spot near the beach, the home of thq 
author, Stewart Edward White, was pointed 
out. 

SANTA BARBARA 

Santa Barbara, that lovely spot called by 
many the Mentone of our country, is particu- 
larly happily situated. Nestled at the foot of 
the Santa Ynez Mountains, it is entirely pro- 
tected by them from the north and west 
winds, and here the blue waters of the Pacific 
Ocean, the lovely coast and wonderful sun- 
shine, flowers and bathing may be enjoyed 
just as on the Riviera the Mediterranean 
is enjoyed. This is one of the most lovely 
resorts of this wonderful State. At Santa 
Barbara there is a very fine old Mission. 



172 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



SAN LUIS OBISPO 

Continuing northward, we come to San 
Luis Ohispo, where there is another Mission 
and where the California Polytechnic School 
may be seen. From here a stage runs to the 
San Luis Obispo Hot Sulphur Springs, said 
to possess wonderful medicinal properties. 



PASO ROBLES HOT SPRINGS 

Paso Bohles Hot Springs are well known to 
all. They undoubtedly rank among the best 
of the many well-known Hot Sulphur Springs. 
The great hotel is not only spacious, but com- 
fortable; all are made welcome. The baths 
are wonderful, curatively as well as architec- 
turally. The Indians are said to have brought 
their sick here from all the surrounding coun- 
try. 

The waters are used internally and ex- 
ternally, and from the mud baths many splen- 
did cures have been reported. But it is not 
only the health seekers who come here; it is 
an ideal place for real rest, fine air, good food, 
lovely walks and drives. There is a splendid 
clubhouse, with covered verandas, from 



PASO ROBLES EOT SPRINGS 173 

whence those not caring to join in the more 
active sports, such as tennis, golf, etc., may 
watch their more energetic friends. 

The swimming pool is 80 by 40 feet, and 
has, of course, its own suites of dressing 
rooms. Through the Park one could wander 
endlessly. Stately old oaks shade the lovely 
paths and fine roads, and one readily under- 
stands the wisdom of the old Spanish name, 
Paso Robles, or Pass of the Oaks. 



RIVERSIDE 

About two hours out of Los Angeles, sit- 
uated in the center of one of the most famous 
of orange-growing regions, is the city of Riv- 
erside, one of the most attractive of the many 
charming places which surround Los Angeles. 

The Glenwood Mission Inn here is a tri- 
umph in this always pleasing architecture, 
the central court, or patio, being one of un- 
usual charm with its very beautiful planting. 
See in this court the famous old orange tree. 

The city is built in the lovely Santa Ana 
Valley, from which the hills roll up on all 
sides. Drive or walk to the summit of one of 
these hills and get the view of this fertile 
spot. On one of the most famous drives you 
will come upon a tablet set into a boulder, 
upon which read the following exquisite 
words, written by that dear nature lover whom 
all the West loves to quote: ^' Climb the 
mountains and get their good tidings. Na- 
ture's peace will flow into you as sunshine 
flows into the trees. The winds will blow 
their own freshness into you and the storms 
their energy, while cares will drop off like 
autumn leaves.'' 

174 



THE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY 

The southern portion of the great interior 
basin of California is commonly known as the 
San Joaquin Valley. It comprises the San 
Joaquin, the Tulare and Kern Valleys. Its 
greatest length is 260 miles and its width 
from 30 to 40 miles. 

The Coast Range on the west of the Valley 
has an average height of 1,700 feet and the 
base averages 65 miles in width. The Sierra 
Nevada Range on the east rises to a much 
greater height, Mount "Whitney reaching 
14,898 feet and the base of this range averages 
80 miles in width. 

Between these two great ranges lies as 
well as the San Joaquin the Sacramento Val- 
ley. The ranges are connected in the south- 
ern part of the State at Tehachipi, and in the 
northern at Mount Shasta. The length of 
these combined valleys is about 450 miles and 
the width is 55 miles. 

The Coast Range is composed of a multi- 
tude of ridges, and is intersected by numer- 
ous long, narrow, fertile valleys, Los Angeles, 
Salinas, Santa Clara, Sonoma, etc. 
175 



MISSIONS 

The Encyclopedia Britannica says : 
'* The Jesuit Missionaries entered Cali- 
fornia in 1697 and established their first Mis- 
sion at Loreto, continuing to spread these 
missions until 1767, when they were expelled 
from the country by order of Charles III of 
Spain and all their property was turned over 
to the Franciscan Monks, who later moved 
north to upper California. . . . Mexico's be- 
coming independent of Spain in 1822 was the 
death-blow to the establishment of the Fran- 
ciscans, which finally broke up in 1840 after 
they had founded 21 Missions/' 

Many of these old buildings have been re- 
stored and are in a fine state of preservation 
to-day; they have had a distinct effect upon 
the architecture of the California of to-day. 
The fine old Spanish lines are most pic- 
turesque and particularly suitable to this 
climate, where the open courts and the beauti- 
ful white arcades have a perpetual back- 
ground of blue sky, with the clear, sparkling 
atmosphere of California. It is impossible in 
176 



MISSIONS 177 

my limited space to give a description of each, 
and there are various books to be had on the 
subject — " In and Out of the Old Missions 
of California ' ' by George Wharton James ; 
" The Missions of California and the Old 
Southwest " by Jesse S. Hildrup, etc. A de- 
lightful trip may be made by motor nowa- 
days, visiting each of these in turn ; they are, 
mentioning them in order from the most 
southern up, as they follow the coast line, 
San Diego, San Luis Rey, San Juan Capis- 
trano, San Gabriel, Los Angeles, San Buena- 
ventura, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, La 
Purisima Concepcion, San Luis Obispo, San 
Miguel, San Antonio, Mission Soledad, San 
Carlos, San Juan Bautista, Santa Cruz, Santa 
Clara, San Jose, Mission Dolores, San Rafael 
Archangel, Mission San Francisco Solano. 

These Missions were built a day's walk 
apart in order that the travellers on foot could 
always find shelter at the end of a day's 
tramp. There has very recently been built, 
near the San Gabriel Mission, a short distance 
from Los Angeles, a theater where is being 
given a very fine Mission play commemorating 
this period in the history of California. An 
ambulatory surrounding the play-house shows 
models of all the Missions in their order; a 
visit to this place and witnessing a perform- 



178 CALIFOBNIA AND THE WEST 

ance of the play will do more to impress upon 
the tourist the early settlement of this part of 
the West Coast than anything else I can sug- 
gest. 



SAN DIEGO 

San Diego is the most southern port on 
the west coast of the United States of America, 
and was one of the earliest settlements on 
this coast. On the way down from Los 
Angeles visit, if possible, the Missions, San 
Juan Capistrano and San Luis Rey; the San 
Diego Mission is in the old town. 

This city has probably the Snest harbor on 
the California coast, after thrt of San Fran- 
cisco ; it is an important port lying quite near 
the Mexican border. 

The climate of San Diego is famous; it is 
said to be equally delightful the year round, 
and all is being done to make the city as at- 
tractive as possible. Six thousand acres have 
been set aside as parkland ; the finest of these 
is Balboa Park, the site of the Panama-Cali- 
fornia Exposition to be held in 1915 at the 
same time as the great Panama-Pacific Ex- 
position in San Francisco. 



179 



CORONADO BEACH 

Coronado Beach, with its great Hotel del 
Coronado, is one of the most famous of year- 
round resorts. The beautiful beach, some 15 
miles long, lies on the peninsula which forms 
the outer arm of the San Diego Bay, and is 
truly an ideal spot. This Hotel, like the 
Del Monte, at Monterey, is set in a veritable 
tropical garden; the flower beds, great sheets 
of color, are an endless delight to the East- 
erner; here may be enjoyed every luxury of 
modern life with all the ease and freedom of 
the tropics. The Japanese Tea Garden and 
Cottage must be visited. A short distance 
from the hotel one comes upon a fine Ostrich 
Farm, where these curious birds may be seen 
of all ages, from a few days old up to the full- 
grown birds. 

In the old town see the Estudillo house, 
made famous by Helen Hunt Jackson as the 
place where Ramona was married. This is 
a very picturesque spot, the courtyard es- 
pecially so, and in the garden the old oven 
still stands. 



180 



TOINT LOMA 181 



NATIONAL CITY 

National City, a little to the south of San 
Diego, is a fine residential section and will 
fully repay a visit; it is easily reached by 
trolley. 



POINT LOMA 

Point Loma, a small peninsula which juts 
into the ocean just at the most northern point 
of San Diego Bay, is a place of unique in- 
terest and must be visited by all who are 
following the work of the '' Theosophical 
Institute of The Universal Brotherhood." 
Here, under the leadership of Katharine Ting- 
ley, this society has established itself and its 
model school. The colony is open to tourists. 
The architecture is unusual, especially The 
Raja Yoga Academy with its two domes, one 
of aqua marine and the other of a curious 
purple hue. See the Moorish Hotel, the 
Aryan Memorial Temple and the Greek 
Theater. 



PANAMA 

Any book on travel to-day would be incom- 
plete without some allusion to Panama, and as 
the great Panama Canal is now nearing com- 
pletion and shortly to be opened, some who 
intend going to the Exposition at San Fran- 
cisco, which is to celebrate this event, may 
elect to go out by way of the Canal. 

Steamers are now leaving any of the large 
Eastern ports, Boston, New York, Philadel- 
phia or Baltimore, regularly. 

There are three lines: 

The Hamburg-American, 
No. 45 Broadway, 

New York City; 

The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, 
No. 22 State Street, 

New York City ; 

The United Fruit Company, 
Steamship Service, 
No. 17 Battery Place, 

New York City. 
182 



PANAMA 183 

The last-named company sends two steamers 
from New York every week, one sailing on 
Wednesday and one on Saturday, making the 
trip in 5 days to Jamaica, and in 7 days to 
Colon, the eastern gateway of the Canal. 

At Colon hotels have been built and the 
tourist is well cared for. 

Trips over the canal zone can be made by 
rail from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, a 
distance of 50 miles. 

Leaving Colon we come first to the great 
Gatun Locks, which cost $18,000,000 to con- 
struct. The Gatun Dam is 9,040 feet long 
and 1,900 feet wide at its greatest width. 

Gatun Lake, an artificial body of water, has 
an area of 164 square miles. 

Next come the Culebra Locks, the Pedro 
Miguel Locks and the Miraflores Locks, and 
this stretch has brought us past the famous 
Culebra Cut — description is impossible, and 
so much has been written and told from the 
lecture platform that I can only say, see it 
for yourself. Probably more mental and 
physical energy has been expended here than 
on any other one piece of work accomplished 
by man. 

We now reach Panama, the western gateway 
to the Canal, where again every comfort of 
the modern hotel awaits us and where one 



184 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

should arrange to stay until this wonderful 
western end of the Canal has been thoroughly 
explored. 

By the time that the Exposition opens, we 
are promised steamers from the Eastern ports, 
which are to make the complete trip to Colon, 
through the Canal and up the West Coast to 
San Francisco. 



These Hotels are listed from 

The Official HOTEL RED BOOK and 
Directory of the United States. 



ARIZONA 

Grand Canon 

HOTEL EL TOVAR, A. P. 

Fred Harvey 
Maricopa 

MCCARTHY'S HOTEL, A. P. $2.50 

E. P. 1.00 up 

F. J. McCarthy 

ADAMS HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

J. C. Adams 
COMMERCIAL HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

G. H. N. Luhrs 

FORD HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

A, B. Williams 
Tucson 

HOTEL HEIDEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

J. W. Kellum 
HOTEL ORNDORFF, E. P. .75-1 50 

F. J. Wharton 
Williams ^ 

GRAND CANON HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

P. S. Ronan 
HOTEL FRAY MARCOS, E. P. 2.00-3.00 

Fred Harvey 



CALIFORNIA 
Agua Caliente 

AGUA CAL. SPRG. HOTEL, ^2.00 

Theo. Richards 
Alameda 

ALAMEDA HOTEL, 2.50 up 

ENCINAL HOTEL, 2.50 up 

PARK HOTEL, E. P. 2.50 up 

J. G. Croll 

185 



186 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



Angel's Camp 

ANGEL HOTEL, 

E. Pache 






$2.00 


Arrowhead Hot Springs 

ARROWHEAD HOTEL, 

C. C. Oswald 


A. 


P. 


3.00-5.00 


Avalon 

HOTEL METROPOLE, 


B. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Belvedere 

HILLSIDE INN, 

M. J. Warren 






2.00 up 


Berkeley 

BERKELEY INN, 

Mrs. A. B. Pray 






2.50 up 


CARLTON HOTEL, 

Mrs. W. F. Morris 






2.50 up 


HOTEL SHATTUCK, 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


3.00-6.00 
1.50-4.00 



Noah W. Gray 
Beverley Hills 

BEVERLEY HILLS HOTEL, A. P. 3.50 

S. S. Anderson 



Big Trees 

DORRINGTON HOTEL, 

R. Gardner 






2.00 


ATAMMOTH GROVE HOTEL, 
J. Whiteside 






3.00 


Calistoga 

CALISTOGA HOTEL, 

H. W. F. Spreen 






2.00 


Carmel-iy-the-Sea 
PINE INN, 

Pine Inn Co. 


A. 


P. 


2.00-3.00 


Coronado 

HOTEL DEL CORONADO, 

John J. Herman 


A. 


P. 




Del Monte 

HOTEL DEL MONTE, 

H. R. Warner 


A. 


P. 


4.00-6.00 


Echo Mountain 

ALPINE TAVERN, 

Pac. Elec. Ry. Co. 






3.00 up 


El Portal 

HOTEL DEL PORTAL, 

F. A. Cline 


A. 


P. 


4.00-5.00 


Fresno 

FULTON HOTEL, 

E. C. White 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL, 
E. C. White 


E. 


P. 


.75 up 



HOTEL LIST 187 



HOTEL CALIFORNIA, 

Mrs. L. L. Moore 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


$1.00 up 
.50 up 


Eern 

CESMAT HOTEL, 

M. Cesmat 






2.50 


METROPOLE HOTEL, 

Stevenson & Bernard 






2.50 


DEER PARK INN, 

J. S. Libbey 








Lake Tahoe 

TAHOE TAVERN, 

Duane L. Bliss, Jr. 


A. 


P. 


4.00 up 


TALLAC HOUSE, 






3.00-4.50 


Lod4 

HOTEL LODI, 

W. L. Robison 


A. 


P. 


1.25 up 


Los Angeles 

HOTEL ALEXANDRIA, 


E. 


P. 


2.00 up 


Los Angeles (down town) 
VAN NUYS HOTEL, 

C. H. Knappe 


E. 


P. 


2.00 up 


HOTEL T<ANKERSHIM, 

Cooper & Davis 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


Los Angeles (about 30 min. out) 
HOTEL LEIGHTON, 

I. M. Wolfe 


A. 


P. 


3.50 up 


HERSHEY ARMS, 






3.00 up 


THE DARBY, 






3.00 up 


Merced 

CENTRAL HOUSE, 

T. H. Wasson 






2.00 


COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL. 

Moran & Howell 






2.00 


EL CAPITAN HOTEL, 

Geo. A. Eastman 


E. 


P. 


1.00-2.00 


Monterey 

CENTRAL HOUSE, 

A. R. Underwood 






1.50 up 


HOTEL DEL MONTE, 

H. R. Warner 


A. 


P. 


4.00-6.00 


PACIFIC GROVE HOTEL, 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


2.50-4.00 
1.00 up 



H. R. Warner 

yational Oity 

SAN MIGUEL HOTEL, 1.50 up 

D. E. La Rue 



188 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Oakland 

HOTEL ADAMS, E. P. $1.00 up 

Dick Adams 
HOTEL ST. MARK, A. P. 2.50 up 

E. P. 1.00 up 

E. J. Greenhood 

HOTEL OAKLAND, E. P. 1.50 up 

Victor Reiter 
KEY ROUTE INN, A. P. 2.50 

E. P. 1.00 
H. Barker 
Pacific Grove 

DEL MAR HOTEL, 1.50 

B. S. Winston 
PACIFIC GROVE HOTEL, 

H. R. Warner 
Pasadena 

HOTEL GREEN, 

David B. Plumer 
HOTEL GUIRNALDA, 

E. O. Davis 
HOTEL RAYMOND, 

Walter Raymond 
Paso Robles 

PASO ROBLES HOT SPRGS., 

Frank W. Sawyer 
Redlands 

HILL CREST INN, 

F. A. Morgan 
LA CASA LOMA, 

J. S. Aurand 
WISSAHICKON INN, 

Mrs. A. B. Johnson 
Redondo 

HOTEL REDONDO, 

J. S. Woollacott 
Redwood City 

REDWOOD CITY HOUSE, 

A. Shoemacher 
TREMONT HOTEL, 

E. Anderson 
Riverside 

THE GLENWOOD MISSION INN, A. P. 3.50 up 
Frank A. Miller 
Sacramento 

CAPITAL HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

C. Jesse Titus 

THE GOLDEN EAGLE HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 
Kirk Harris 



A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


2.50-4.00 
1.00 up 


A. 


P. 




A. 


P. 


3.00 up 


A. 


P. 


5.00 up 


A. 


P. 


3.50 up 


A. 

E. 


P. 
P. 


2.00 up 
1.00 up 


A. 


P. 


4.00 up 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 


A. 


P. 


2.50-5.00 

1.25 
1.50 



HOTEL LIST 189 

LANDS HOTEL. 

TRAVELERS HOTEL, E. P. $1.50-4.50 

J. L. Flanagan 
WESTERN HOTEL, A. P. 1.25 up 

Morrison & Burns 
San Bernardino 

NEW SUNSET HOTEL, E. P. .75-2.50 

Chas. Klein 



STEWART HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 




E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


E. M. Crawford 








San Diego 








HOTEL BREWSTER, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


J, F. Maloney 








HOTEL CECIL, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Cecil Hotel Co. 








U. S. GRANT HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


J. H. Holmes 








San Francisco 








BELLEVUE HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


4.00 up 




E. 


P. 


2.00 up 


W. E. Zander 








FAIRMONT HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


2.50 up 


J. C. Kirkpatrick 








HOTEL ST. FRANCIS, 


E. 


P. 


2.00 up 


James Woods 








HOTEL STEWART, 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 




E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


Chas. A. Stewart 








PATrACE HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


2.50 up 


J. C. Kirkpatrick 








San Josi 








HOTEL MONTGOMERY, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


C. H. Burkhardt 








HOTEL ST. JAMES, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 




E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Albert Bettens 








THE IMPERIAL 








HOTEL VENDOME, 


A. 


P. 


3.50 up 




E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


Morgan Ross 








San Luis Obispo 








ANDREWS HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 


F. J. McKenry 








HOTEL ST. JAMES, 


E. 


P. 


.50 up 


L. C. Bell 








San Mateo 








UNION HOTEL, 






2.00 


San Pedro 








HOTEL WIEDEWALD, 






2.00 


Chas. Dreifus 









190 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



Banta Barbara 








ARLINGTON HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


$4.00 up 


E. P. Dunn 








HOTEL MASCAREL, 


A. 


P. 


2.00-3.00 


H. W. Beatty 








THE POTTER HOTEL, 






3.00 up 


Milo M. Potter 








Santa Clara 








PIPES HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Mrs. Pipes 








Santa Cruz 








HOTEL CASA DEL REY 


E. 


P. 


2.00 


James McCullougb 








RIVERSIDE HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.00 up 


Fred Barson 








ST. GEORGE HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 




E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


J. J. C. Leonard 








Santa Monica 








WINDERMERE HOTEL 








BY-THE-SEA, 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 




E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


R. Boide 








Santa Rosa 








HOTEL OVERTON, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Santa Rosa H. Co. 








OCCIDENTAL HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 


Santa Rosa H. Co. 








Sausalito 

HOLLY OAKS HOTEL, 


A 


P. 


2.50 up 


H. B. Russell 








Sonoma 








UNION HOTEL, 






2.00 


H. W. Gottenburg 








Stockton 








HOTEL CLARK, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


M. G. Phllson 








THE STOCKTON, 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


A. I. Wagner 








YOSEMITE HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 




E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


A. I. Wagner 








Tahoe 








DEER PARK INN, 








J. S. Libby 








MOAN VILLA. 


A. 


P. 


2.00 


P. J. Pomin 








TAHOE TAVERN, 


A. 


P. 


4.00 up 


Duane L. Bliss 








TALLAC HOUSE, 






3.00-4.50 



HOTEL LIST 191 



Truckee 








THE NEW WHITNEY HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 




Tulare 








HOTEL ENCINA, 


A. 


P. 


$2.00 


J. W. Chamberlain 








Ventura 








HOTEL ANACAPA, 


A. 


P. 


2.00 up 




E. 


P. 


.50 up 


Hartman Bros, 








Visalia 








PALACE HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


F. Stousland 








PIERPONT INN, 


A. 


P. 


3.50 up 


A. Pierpont 








Wawona 








WAWONA HOUSE, 






3.00-4.00 


Wawona Hotel Co. 








Yosemite 








' SENTINEL HOTEL, 








CAMP AHWAHNEE, 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 


W. M. Sell 








CAMP CURRY, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 


David A. Curry 








CAMP LOST ARROW 








COLORADO 








Canon City 








HOTEL DENTON, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


A. Shore 








RIO GRANDE HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.00 


Mrs. Hodginson 








THE STRATHMORE, 


A. 


P. 


3.00-4.00 




E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


L. M. Wingert 








Colorado City 








NATIONAL HOTEL, 






2.00 up 


G. T. Ensign 








Colorado Springs 








ALTA VISTA HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


H. H. Stevens 








THE ACACIA, 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


J. W. Atkinson 








THE ANTLERS, 


E 


P. 


1.50 up 


W. S. Dunning 








GRIER'S HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


.50 up 


J. J. Grier H. Co. 








Cripple Creek 








HOTEL IMPERIAL, 


A. 


P. 


2.00 up 




B, 


P. 


1.00 up 


M. E. Shoot 









192 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

NATIONAL HOTEL, E. P. $1.00 up 

F. Johannigman 
Denver 

AUDITORIUM HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

D. D. Watson 

GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL, E. P. .50-1.00 

E. L. Roberts 

THE BROWN PALACE HOTEL, E. P. 1.50 up 

C. H. Morse 
THE NEW SAVOY HOTEL, E. P. 1.50 up 

Nicodemus & Starkweather 



THE MARKHAM, 

Hughes & Nolan 


E. 


P. 


.75 up 


ALBANY HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


Estes Park 

HOTEL STANLEY, 

A. Lamborn 


A. 


P. 


5.00 up 


LESTER'S HOTEL, 

C. E. Lester & Co. 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 


Qlenwood Springs 

HOTEL COLORADO, 

Elmer E. Lucas 






4.00-5.00 


HOTEL GLENWOOD, 

H. & A. Burnett 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


3.00 up 
1.00 up 


HOTEL GRAND, 

W. R. Lee 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


2.50 up 
.75 up 


Manitou Springs 

GRAND VIEW HOTEL, 

W. Paulson & Son 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


2.50 up 
1.00 up 


HOTEL NAVAJO, 

C. A. Pollen 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 


THE CLIFF HOUSE, 

E. E. Nichols H. Co. 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


3.00 up 
1.50 up 


Ouraj/ 

BEAUMONT HOTEL, 

Chas. Sebelin 






3.00 


Pueilo 

BROADWAY INN, 

C. F. Ray 


A. 

E. 


P. 
P. 


2.50 
1.00 


CONGRESS HOTEL, 

J. M. Oaks 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Twin Lakes 

HOTEL CAMPION, 

O. P. De Ford 


A. 


P. 


3.00 up 



HOTEL LIST 193 

IDAHO 

CcEur d'Alene 

HOTEL ANTLER, E. P. $1.00 up 

Henry Bodler 

HOTEL IDAHO, E. P. 1.00 up 

N. Simpson 



ILLINOIS 
Chicago 

AUDITORIUM HOTEL, E. P. .2.00 up 

W. S. Shafer 
THE BLACKSTONE, E. P. 

Drake Hotel Co. 
HOLLAND HOTEL, A. P. 2.00 up 

E, P. .75 up 
Chas. H. White 



KANSAS 
Kansas City 

GARMO HOUSE, 2.00 

J. Higgins 
HOTEL GRUND, A. P. 2.50 up 

E. P. 1.00 up 
T. Swarts 

LOUISIANA 
New Orleans 

COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

Vic Le Beau 
HOTEL GRUNEWALD, E. P. 1.00 up 

Hotel Grunewald Co. 
HOTEL ST. CHARLES, E. P. 1.50 up 

A. S. Amer & Co. 



MONTANA 

Butte 

THE BUTTE, E. P. 1.00-4.00 

F. K. Wilson 
THE SAMMIS, E. P. 1.50 up 

C. W. Sammis 
Olacier Park 

GLACIER PK. STATION HOTEL 
Missotda 

MISSOULA HOTEL, E. P. 1.00 up 

.las. A. Walsh 
WINDSOR HOTEL, A.. P. 1.25 up 

E. Lacasse 



194 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



NEBRASKA 








Omaha 

HENSHAW HOTEL, 

J. H. Keenan 


E. 


P. 


$1.00 up 


HOTEL LOYAL, 

F. J. Taggart 


E. 


P. 


1.00-4.00 


HOTEL DREXEL, 

W. J. Roush 


E. 


P. 


.50 up 


NEW MEXICO 








THE ALVARADO, 

Fred Harvey 








OREGON 

Crater Lake 

CRATER LAKE LODGE, 

A. L. Parkhurst 


A. 


P. 


3.25 


Hood River 

MT. HOOD HOTEL, 

C. A. Bell 


E. 


P. 


.50-2.00 


Klamath Falls 

HOTEL BALDWIN, 

E. B. Hall 


A. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


2.00 up 
1.00 up 


THE WHITE PELICAN, 

Conway & Ingram 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


Portland 

HOTEL BELVEDERE, 

Theo. Kruse 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


HOTEL MULTNOMAH, 

H. C. Bowers 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


HOTEL OREGON, 

Wright-Dickinson Co. 


E. 


P. 


1.50 up 


THE PORTLAND, 

G. J. Kaufmann 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


The Dalles 

HOTEL DALLES, 

Hotel Dalles Co. 


E. 


P. 


.75 up 


UMATILLA HOUSE, 

Sinnott & Fislj 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


UTAH 
Ogden 

HOTEL MARION, 

David Mattson 
HOTEL ALBERT, 








E. 
E. 


P. 
P. 


1.00 up 
1.50 up 


Salt Lake City 

HOTEL MOXUM, 

Thos. Gavin 


E. 


P. 


1.00 up 



HOTEL LIST 195 

THE NEW WILSON, E. P. $1.00-3.00 

A. Fred Wey 
THE SEMLOH, E. P. 1.00 up 

Semloh Hotel Co. 
HOTEL UTAH, E. P. 1.50 up 

WASHINGTON 

Seattle 

HOTEL LINCOLN, A. P. ,2.25 up 

E. P. .50 up 
W. J. Blackwell 
HOTEL SEATTLE, E. P. 1.00 up 

Wright-Dickinson Co. 
HOTEL WASHINGTON, E. P. 1.50 up 

J. H. Davis 
NEW WASHINGTON HOTEL, E. P. 

James Woods 

Tacoma 

CARLTON HOTEL, E. P. 1,00 up 

F. C. Schlenz 
HOTEL TACOMA, E. P. 1.00 up 

Hotel Co. of Tacoma 
SANDS HOTEL, A. P. 2.00 up 

Mrs. A. C. Sands 

WYOMING 

Yellowstone National Park 

FOUNTAIN GEYSER HOTEL, A. P. 5.00 up 

T. Keefe 
GRAND CANYON HOTEL, A. P. 5.00 up 

Wm. Rogers 
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, A. P. 5.00 up 

H. G. Lewis 
OLD FAITHFUL INN, A. P. 5.00 up 

Mrs. A. Underwood 

ALBERTA (CANADA) 
Banff 

BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL, A. P. 4.00 up 

C. P. Ry. Co. 
Laggan 

CHATEAU LAKE LOUISE, A. P. 4.00 up 

C. P. Ry. Co. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 
Field 

MOUNT STEPHEN HOUSE, A. P. 3.50 up 

C. P. Ry. Co. 
STRAND HOTEL, 

R. A. Upper 



196 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 



Glacier 








GLACIER HOUSE, 


A. 


P. 


$3.50 up 


C. P. Ry. Co. 








Sicamotis 








BELLEVUE HOTEL, 






2.00 


L. H. Congiew 








SICAMOUS HOTEL, 






3.50 up 


C. P. Ry. Co. 








Vancouver 








COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.00 up 


F. 0. Winewiser 








HOTEL VANCOUVER, 


E. 


P. 




C. P. Ry. Co. 








THE WOODS HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 




E. 


P. 


1.00 up 


W. D. Wood 








Victoria 








EMPRESS HOTEL, 


E. 


P. 


2.00 up 


J. C. Humble 








KING EDWARD HOTEL, 


A. 


P. 


2.50 up 


H. D. Kelly 









BOOK LIST 



Atlantis Arisen Frances Fuller Victor 

At the Silver Gate John Vance Cheney 

Beyond the Rockies C. A. Stoddard 

California the Beautiful Paul Elder, compiler 

Camp Fires on Desert and Lava 

(illustrated) W. T. Hornaday 

Descriptive Geography from Orig- 
inal Sources F. D, Herbertson 

Discovery of the Yosemite L. H. Bunnell 

Fifteen Thousand Miles by Stage 

(illustrated) C. A. Strahorn 

Glaciers of Mt. Rainier I, C. Russell 

Glaciers of North America I. C. Russell 

_ Great Deserts and Forests of 

North America (illustrated) . . . Fountain 

Highways and Byways of the 

Rocky Mountains (illustrated) . C. Johnson 

In and Around the Grand Canyon 

of Arizona (illustrated) G. W. James 

In and Around the Grand Canyon 

of Colorado (illustrated) G. W. James 

In and Out of the Old Missions of 

California (illustrated) G. W. James 

Indians of the Painted Desert 

Region (illustrated) G. W. James 

Indians of the Yosemite Valley.. Galen Clark 

Indians of To-day (illustrated) ... G. B, Grinnell 

In the Heart of the Sierras J. M. Hutchings 

^In the Land of the Cliff Dweller 

and Indians To-day (illustrated) T. M. Prudden 

Journals of a Trip Through the 
Western Country (profusely il- 
lustrated) Theo. Winthrop 

Lakes of North America I. C. Russell 

Land of the Cliff Dwellers (illus- 
trated) F. S. Chapin 

Land of Poco Tiempo (illustrated) C, F, Lummis 
- Land of Enchantment from Pike's 

Peak to the Pacific (illustrated) Lilian Whiliting 

My First Summer in the Sierras. . John Muir 

Mountains of California (illus- 
trated) John Muir 

-On the Great American Plateau 

(illustrated) T. M. Prudden 

Our National Parks ; . John Muir 

Our National Recreation Parks... Nicholas Senn 



197 



198 CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST 

Pacific Coast Scenic Tour H. T. Fink 

Rambles Overland Almon Gunnison 

Romance of the Colorado River 

(illustrated) Dillenbaugh 

-Romantic California (illustrated). E. C. Peixotto 
Some Strange Corners of Our 

Country (illustrated) C. F. Lummis 

Spell of the Rockies (illustrated) E. A. Mills 

The Canoe and Saddle Theo. Winthrop 

The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa 

Verde G. Nordenskiold 

The Mountain that was God John H. Williams 

The Mountains of Oregon W. G. Steel 

■ The Seven Wonders of the New 

World J. K. Peck 

The Spell of the Yukon Robert W. Service 

The Yellowstone National Park, 

Historical and Descriptive H. M. Chittenden 

The Yosemite Valley Galen Clark 

Trails Through Western Woods... H. F. Sanders 

Two Great Canyons C. C. Cole 

Wonders of the Colorado Desert 

(illustrated) 

Wonders of the Yellowstone J.Richardson 

The Land of Little Rain Mary Austin 

Ten Thousand Miles with a Dog 

Sled Hudson Stuck, D.D. 

Mountaineering and Exploration in 

the Selkirks Howard Palmer 

The Conquests of Mt. McKinley.. Belmore Browne 



rHll5 89 



CALIFORNIA AND THE FAR WEST 







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